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| Just arrived by SUV taxi at "Hotel Le Relais Normand", from Ivato Airport. Here i am at the hotel lobby of my 100th country visited during my lifetime of travel. This hotel exhibits vintage memorabilia. As for me,hope my travel encourages common adventurer's and retiree's to travel .If i can do it why not you ? |
Readers of my travelogues know that this nomadic wanderer now upgraded to " Digital Nomadic traveller" cannot stay at home in Mumbai for long. Hence after my arrival to home country India in June accomplishing travel across Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan immediately started planning my next foreign travel itinerary. In-between foreign travels i explore prominent tourist historical sites and wild life parks in home country India .Honestly my own permanent home in Mumbai is akin to a tourist homestay since the last two decades having resided in numerous hotels,hostels ,lodges and resorts across the Globe and India.On Wednesday(3/7/2024) booked my on-line return ticket from Mumbai to Antananarivo on "Kenya Airways" costing a total of Rs 65,344 with scheduled departure to Antananarivo on Monday(2/8/2024) via a transit in Nairobi and return back to Mumbai on Sunday(15/8/2024).Visa for Indian tourists visiting Madagascar is granted on arrival but yet i applied for a on-line 15 day visa through " Farshak Travels( Prabhadevi)" , the cost amounting to Rs 2820.
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| " Le Relais Normand ", built in 1950 , my residence hotel in Downtown Antananarivo in close proximity to Gare Soarano(Antananarivo train station) and Independence Avenue situated in the city centre.It is one of the plush pre-independence buildings in this locality of Antananarivo. Inside this building you are transferred into a different World of plush luxury with antique memorabilia, artwork and vintage Madagascar photographs being the interior decor with excellent English music playing non-stop in the hotel restaurant/ reception lounge on the ground floor .The clientele was mostly Caucasian tourists with a mix of locals and other foreigners .Outside this hotel is the bustling market of Petite Vitesse with its narrow cobblestone road and heavy one way traffic in daylight hours.My room was on the third floor having a gallery with a view of the bustling street below as seen in this photograph .Only major drawback of this plush heritage hotel is the fact that it has no "Lift(Elevator)" and hence elderly tourists would find it tiresome walking up the stairs to the top most 4th floor.Building is triangular in shape and at night after darkness when all shops close this same busy Petite Vitesse Street becomes a "Ghost Street" ,desolate of humans .In 2024 as per GDP-PPP/Capita($) census Madagascar ranked 9th amongst the most poorest Countries in the World and its visible when you travel across the Capital city Antananarivo and other towns of Madagascar.( Source :- Internet Research) |
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| My first breakfast in Country No 100 that I have travelled across during my lifetime.Classic simple " French Breakfast " at Le Relais Normand hotel restaurant with vintage English music of the 20th century playing non-stop and the T.V screen playing mostly EPL football . |
Monday(2/9/2024)Departure Mumbai and arrival Antananarivo :- Boarded a taxi from my residence at Old Prabhadevi road and was early at " Chatrapati Shivaji Terminal 2" at 0130 hrs with the fare amounting to Rs 400.Was early in the " Departure Lounge" and finally after a long wait collected my boarding ticket from the " Kenya Airways counter"and at 0400 hrs checked out of the " Security/ Immigration check" and into the palatial " Duty Free lounge". As usual browsed through a book shop shelf and did some duty free window shopping keeping in touch with luxury goods duty free prices .Finally walked towards " Gate 66" to board flight " KQ 205" to Nairobi.Later received a message of a change in boarding gate from " Gate 66 " to " Gate 46 B" .Has happened to me numerous times before and a part and parcel of " Air Travel Jet Lag".At 0615 hrs boarded " KQ205" onto seat No 21B,the flight housefull to Nairobi.Watched two inflight movies and found the Hindi movie " Freddie" something different from normal Hindi movie suspense formulas.After " Freddie" watched " Elvis" , a repeat from my previous air travel and thoroughly enjoyed this classic biography on second viewing.Bizzarely in Mumbai i rarely watch movies in theatres and seems i have watched more movies travelling in planes than in theatres on land.A "Middle Class Jetsetter" ? Truth is stranger than fiction.Reached Nairobi at 1100 hrs and hurried through my transit checkout only to realize that Flight " KQ 256" was delayed by a hour with final departure at 1330 hrs.
No inflight movie as the sound system was non functional but same compensated with a excellent lunch downed with a " Tusker beer" and South African Shiraz wine.
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| View of Petite Vitesse street that leads to Gare de Soarano and Independence Avenue in this direction.Notice the typical European style cobblestone road.This locality of Antananarivo was one of the first to be developed by the French colonizers. |
Finally at 1700 hrs after 9.5 hrs of total flight time from Mumbai touched down at " Ivato Airport ",the only International airport of Madagascar . In 2024 Madagascar was ranked as the 9th poorest country in the World.During immigration there was a special check for contagious disease prevention and a few of us including myself were forced to swallow some cholera tablets along with a glass of water.Finally got my Visa stamped and after collecting my trolley bag headed out of the airport into the money exchange bureau.Exchange rate was 1 US Dollar = 4564 Ariary and felt like a billionaire having wads of 20,000 Denomination Ariary currency.Boarded a private Hyundai SUV taxi with the fare amounting to a princely 50,000 Ariary.Cheap if the fare is shared by 4 passengers .Was finally dropped at Hotel " Le Relais Normand ".A Old World French decor hotel and after checking into the hotel registry was allotted " Room No 307" on the third floor,the only room on the entire floor having a balcony facing the road.There was no lift in this building and it was a tiring walk to the third floor .A excellent palatial room with T.V and large bathroom with hot water.Had a good nights sleep after almost 24 hrs of sleepless airport transit's and air travel from Mumbai to Antananarivo.
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| Soarano Train Station, officially known as Gare de Soarano, is the main train station of Antananarivo and is located at the end of Independence Avenue.Designed by architect Georges Auguste Fouchard in the style of 19th century railway stations it was built between 1908 and 1910 and the execution of the work was directed by the contractor Cornebois.The building was built on a landfill where there was a fountain, hence the name Soarano which means “good water”. In the past,passenger trains to Tamatave, Ambatondrazaka and Antsirabe used to leave from Soarano Train Station but after the passenger train service became defunct today only some freight trains heading to the Eastern coast pass the station.The current owner of this station is the Malagasy company Madarail , which entrusted its renovation to the architect Geneviève Brunet. In 2008, it regained its former splendor with renovations housing the plush The "Café de la Gare" a very stylish 5 star style cafe and restaurant located at the extreme end of the former platform of Soarano train station and offices on the ground floor of the empty station.During my visit to this plushest of plush "Café de la Gare"saw a fuel oil taker cargo train pass alongside the majestic Soarano passenger train station.The architecture and decoration takes one back in time when trains were the main means of transport.(Source Internet Research & Wikipedia) |
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| Vintage cars exhibited on ground of Gare de Soarano(Antananarivo train station) . |
Tuesday (3/9/2024) Antananarivo :- Weather at night was excellent , cool but not chill cold.As usual woke up after approximately 3 hrs of sleep and after my normal toilet routines got busy on the Internet while watching some sports program on the T.V. Breakfast was at 0700 hrs in the main entrance lounge restaurant.Excellent mild continental breakfast although not filling as it was only bread/butter/jam with a juice and tea.After breakfast walked out of the secluded comfort of the plush hotel onto one of the narrowest and busiest street's in Antananarivo.Walked past the rows of hawker shops with my destination being the City's main train station ,Gare Soarano, and from there venturing into Antananarivo city centre.On my walk towards the railway station came across a hawker selling sunglasses and purchased cheap glasses for my daily cycling commuting at home in Mumbai.Passed alongside Petit Poste Office, the main post office of the locality and from there a little further onto the beautiful edifice of historic Gare Soarano (Antananarivo train station).This historic landmark building of colonial 19th century French architecture is non-functional as a train station and renovated in 2008 to preserve its cultural and architectural heritage .
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| "Cathedral of Immaculate Conception" church. Seat of the Roman Catholic Church in Antananarivo. Facade is identical to Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris and was built between 1873 -1890 in Gothic style.. |
Came across three vintage cars on display at one end of the parking lot of the train station.At the other end of the parking lot came across a beautiful brand new "Milango" sports bike motorcycle and had a short talk with its young owner Mr Arinoely.Radomanana.From the train station it was a straight walk down the plushest street of Antananarivo, the "Avenue de l'independance(Independence Avenue)" with its broad clean street ,colonial era buildings and as i was early the street side hawker tents were in the process of being erected.Had my first encounter of Madagascar's extreme's in living as a "Third World Country".A young girl with a baby in arms would pester for money indicating she required money for pharmacy medicines although she and the child seemed normal.A common ploy re-enacted by different young girls throughout my stay in Antananarivo.Crime rate is also high and i noticed that women or men didn't wear gold chains as snatching of bags or chains and most importantly pick-pocketing was not uncommon as per feedback from numerous tourists.Walked past Analakely market with its small shops having beautiful decorated tiled roofs.Walking further past Analakely market and got the view of the majestic hills of Antananarivo dotted with bungalow style residential housing.Inquiring the direction to "Rova Palace" was guided in the direction of Haute-Ville (Upper Town), the plush hilly neighbourhood of Antananarivo.The oldest and most attractive part of town is the pedestrian Haute-Ville (known as Tanana Ambony in Malagasy)which feels more like a quiet hilltop village. It's famed for its architecture – two-storey brick houses with steep roofs, balconies and tumbling plants dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A stroll around the cobbled streets here offers great views of the town and surrounding countryside. There are six churches on this small hill alone, of which 5 churches are Protestant churches and the only Catholic church is the imposing Ambozontany Cathedral(Cathedral of Immaculate Conception) .It was now a total uphill walk towards Analamanga hill summit ,akin to trekking, the highest hill in Antananarivo city. As i gained ascent the view of Antananarivo City below was beautiful as also the weather,cool and pleasant, akin to European weather in spring season.
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| A view of Avenue de l'Independence (Independence Avenue)as seen from the Analakely market end of this avenue. This iconic street, previously named Avenue Fallières, bears witness to a bygone French colonial era, its very essence intertwined with the intricate tapestry of Madagascar's rich history.The avenue stretches from the Soarano station to the bustling Analakely market, passing alongside the majestic City hall. Along its length are majestic buildings with tiled roof's having various offices, banking establishments and restaurants.Independence Avenue is a main shopping street with several hotels, restaurants and offices, including Air Madagascar's main reservations office. Street hawkers have a vibrant mosaic of small businesses, offering a diverse array of goods and services, from "Money Exchange" and single cigarettes to an array of counterfeit and pirated products. (Source :- Internet Research & Wikipedia) |
On the route came across a local tea-stall owner doing a brisk business with the local morning commuters.Street-side breakfast was excellent Malagasy "Banana fritters" with local tea served in a tiny tin cup , something different.
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| View of Analakely District walking towards Haute-Ville ( Upper Town). Antananarivo is a city of 12 hills and one of its hills is seen in this photograph. Analamanga hill on whose summit the "Rova Palace" is situated is the highest hill in Antananarivo city. |
After my local breakfast at the tea stall headed further up Analamanga hill and on the slope of a plateau at Fianarantsoa locale of the Old Town sighted the Roman Catholic Archdiocese Cathedral of Antananarivo ,the "Ambozontany Cathedral (Cathedral of Immaculate Conception)".The facade of this Cathedral is similar to the Notre Dame of Paris.I was surprised that being a Tuesday there was a large number of vehicles parked outside the Cathedral.At 0935 hrs entered the Cathedral where the offertory of a "High Mass" was in progress.Have attended Catholic masses in the African continent till 8 years of age having been born in Mombasa in Kenya and also receiving my "First Holy Communion" at "Holy Ghost Cathedral" in Mombasa. After we migrated permanently to India attended mass in the African continent in Livingstone in Zambia during a tour of Victoria Falls.This cathedral has a tall statue of Mother Mary overlooking the city of Antananarivo below from the slopes on Analamanga hill . Now here in Antananarivo i got to attend half the mass and the offectory rituals were different in comparison to Mass held in Indian church's.
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| The Rova(Queen's Palace) of Antananarivo is located 1,480 metres (4,860 ft) above sea level on Analamanga, originally the highest of the numerous hills in Antananarivo.The origins of the Queen's Palace can be traced back to the mid-19th century when it was envisioned by Queen Ranavalona I and meticulously designed by the Scottish missionary, James Cameron.Its initial construction took the form of a wooden palace, a testament to the harmonious fusion of indigenous craftsmanship and foreign influences under Cameron's expert guidance. The structural marvel of this palace was underscored by a colossal rosewood pillar, an engineering feat that stands as a testament to the era's ingenuity. This awe-inspiring pillar, stretching an astonishing 39 meters, was the result of the tireless toil of an estimated 10,000 individuals who transported this precious timber from the distant east coast.The Queen's Palace, resplendent in its regal grandeur, boasted a luminous white facade adorned with balustrades painted in vibrant red and black, radiating an aura of majesty and opulence. The palace underwent a transformative evolution around 1870 under the stewardship of James Cameron, a name synonymous with its enduring legacy. Cameron introduced four Italian-style corner towers, enhancing not only the palace's aesthetic allure but also its architectural uniqueness.A devastating fire in 1995 laid waste to the palace's interior and restoration efforts are still in progress in 2024.At the entrance to this historic enclave, a gate stands adorned with a carved eagle symbolizing military prowess and a phallus emblematic of circumcision and nobility. The palace's compound bears witness to the ambitions of successive rulers who erected and sometimes demolished various palatial structures on the premises, leaving scattered ruins as silent testaments to their legacies.(Source :- Internet Research & Wikipedia) |
After the Church visit headed towards destination "Rova, the Queens Palace" finally reaching the closed gates of the "Rova". Tuesday is a holiday when the "Rova" remains closed to visitors.
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| Andafiavaratra Palace Museum in close proximity to " Rova Palace ".Originally the residence of Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony who was Prime Minister from 1864- 1895 it is pink in colour and constructed in Baroque style. |
Came across a young guide Mr Taina who agreed to take me on a brief external tour of the vicinity of the "Rova". The "Rova (Queen's Palace)" also called Manjakamiadana sits on the summit of Mt Analamanga,1480 meters above sea level,the highest hill in Antananarivo city.It was for Queen Ranavalona I, for whom the original wooden palace was built between 1839 and 1841 by Frenchman Jean Laborde. In 1867 the palace was encased in stone for Queen Ranavalona II by Scotsman James Cameron, an artisan missionary of the London Missionary Society.The site offers a 360* view of Antananarivo with its 12 hills .Guide Taina took me to the opposite side of the mountain that offered a bird's eye view of the cultivated rice fields and the city's water reservoir lake.Next had a look at the open air Ambatondrafandrana (Justice Palace for Executions) where criminals were executed.We visited the small museum situated near the main entrance gate to the "Rova" and got a brief history of Malagasy Royalty .Photography is prohibited inside the museum as also in the "Rova". From the museum had a external view of the Andafiavaratra(Prime Ministers Palace) ,a former residence of the Queen's Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony now converted to a museum.It was closed due to some renovation. On the opposite side of the mountain road facing the Andafiavaratra is another historic building that houses the present day relatives of the Queen's Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony .
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| Ambatondrafandrana ( Justice Palace for Executions).Place where criminals were executed. |
After the brief guided tour made my way downhill coming across a few historic churches belonging to the Protestant sect of Christianity.The streets were packed with car's ,commuters and motorcycles.Came across the local "Rex" single screen theatre of Antananarivo.On reaching Analakely market decided to quench my thirst with a beer and surprised to find no bars within the cute Analakely market.Spotted a advertisement at a lane on the opposite side of Analakely market and hence entered "Hotel Restaurant des artistes" and on entering was amazed at being translocated into a Parisian locale. At 1230 hrs the bar and restaurant was crowded with French national's with French being the only language of communication and i wouldn't be surprised if Artist Pablo Picasso had visited Antananarivo sometime during his lifetime..Ordered a "THB Beer" costing 9000 Ariary and made myself comfortable on the main bar stool.
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| Temporary plastic tent shops only for the day set up on Independence Avenue selling various products. |
Picked up a conversation with a Frenchman involved in agriculture who had resided in Punjab regarding agriculture consulting.Excellent ambiance and as repeated before ,you are never ever alone as a "Solo Traveller". Ahoy ! From "Hotel Restaurant des artists" walked the familiar route and at the tented market had a snack lunch of local food as also tasting the famous "Malagasy sausage".Purchased a pair of Khaki jungle shorts and finally the nomad walked into home away from home "Hotel Le Relais Normand".Googling my route on the "Internet" was aghast to realize i had walked a total of almost 10 Kms from my hotel to " Rova Palace" and back , that too uphill and downhill on steep gradients.Hope age is just a number for me and " So far so good". Ahoy !Antananarivo has power outages and at 1530 hrs there was no power for about two hours and was surprised that such a well managed hotel didn't possess a generator for "Emergency power".Travel educates. Dinner was omelette with salad in the palatial dining restaurant of the hotel.
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| " FLOWER MARKET" of Antananarivo located along Rue Dok. Ravoahangy Andrianavalona Joseph in the centre of Antananarivo, within walking distance from Lake Anosy. From early in the morning men and women can be seen binding fresh flower bouquets for sale at their individual stalls at the market or to by-passers along the street.Many different species of exotic flowers unique to Madagascar are sold on this small, colourful market which is open every day of the week.Some of the flower sellers deliver directly to restaurants and hotels. Due to the abundance of flowers in Madagascar, the prices are incredible low. |
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| " Cotisse Transport " office in Ambodivona Computerized booking for road transport across Madagascar from Antananarivo. |
Wednesday(4/9/2024) Antananarivo :- Woke up early as usual and on switching the T.V was relieved to be entertained by a "Bon Jovi Concert".The weather had abruptly changed from cool to cold with rainfall at night.The street outside seemed slushy with rainwater muck.Walked the now familiar distance from the hotel to Independence avenue which has a fleet of mini-vans parked for different destinations across Antananarivo and Madagascar. I faced severe language problems in explaining availability of transport to "Ambodivona Cotisse Transport" office and finally a scooter taxi driver understood me and agreed to take me pillion to Ambodivona.The road was terrible and since it had rained in the morning there was slush which made riding conditions difficult .It was a long drive in heavy traffic conditions and the scooter rider having excellent riding skills rode the bike akin to being in a "Dirt track race".Travel educates .
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| Experiencing the life of the local Malagasy commuter by travelling on the local bus. Gets packed to capacity at various stops. Travel Educates. |
Finally heaved a sigh of relief on reaching "Ambodivona Cotisse " office with the scooter taxi ride amounting to 10,000 Ariary.The "Cotisse Ambodivona " transport office was identical to bus transport companies of Europe , although smaller in scale having mini "Mercedes Benz Sprinter" buses rather than the gigantic first World buses that ply between European cities on which i travelled across almost entire Europe.Enquired with the ticket issuing staff and a lady speaking english guided me in booking my ticket for Morondava costing 60,000 Ariary.After booking my ticket .the next task was heading back to Analakely and i avoided the numerous "Scooter taxi drivers" finally hopping into a local bus packed to capacity.The entire street was a market place with traffic moving at a snails pace in-between shops and people on both sides of the road.I presumed my home city of Mumbai suffered from traffic and crowd congestion in certain pockets of the city but seems Antananarivo could be one of the World's most congested cities. Travel educates.The bus ticket cost was only 200 Ariary,unbelievingly cheap in comparison to private taxi's .
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| Lunch at " Duo restaurant". Thanks to Ms Radrianirine Hanitra that I was introduced to this excellent Malagasy restaurant and also guidiance by public transport travel to " LEMURS PARK" |
So i had finally experienced the commuter life of the average common Malagasy and this is the difference between organized group travel and Nomadic solo travel where as a "Solo Traveller" you get to understand the local life and living of the country visited.Finally to my utter surprise the bus drove past Analakely and headed straight into our road that was definitely the most congested road in entire Antananarivo with me alighting about 100 meters away from my hotel.Relaxed in my hotel room and later walked down to Analakely inquiring about the location of a tourism office. Was directed to a palatial office building and inquired about group tours to "Lemur Park" but was told they conducted only private car hire tours.The charges were exorbitant and decided to somehow manage to use public transport to reach "Lemur Park".Thanked the logistic staff of the travel agency and headed into Independence Avenue .There was a large posse of police outside the most majestic building on Independence avenue which also had a large crowd of youngsters seated next to this palatial building. On inquiring with a young lady standing next to the seated crowd heaved a sigh of relief when she replied in english that this building was the "Antananarivo City Hall" that houses the municipal institutions of Antananarivo.Next inquired with her regarding good local Malagasy food as she spoke fluent english and hence total strangers became acquaintance's.We walked across the street to the opposite side of the City Hall into "Restaurant Duo" that served Malagasy food.Conversing got to know that Mrs Radrianirine Hanitra Marina,a mother of one child was a teacher in Antananarivo teaching "German language" to students.She didn't have lunch but accompanied me with a cup of tea and thanks to her got directions to taking public shared transport to "Lemurs Park". She was on a busy schedule and left early and we became "FB" friends .
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| View of Mahamasina Stadium in close proximity to Anosy lake.It's a Rugby and Football stadium of 40,880 capacity.Also used for concerts and Athletics. |
After lunch walked back to home away from home purchasing some oranges on the way .Relaxed in the hotel and later inquired with receptionist Mr Roland regarding directions to Anosy Lake to which he guided me to the location of the bus stop which was on the road adjacent to the hotel.In fact this particular spot was the main starting/End point bus stop of various routes. Being my second bus ride i was accustomed to squeezing myself inside the crowded mini bus and thankfully was not very far , in fact much less than the marathon 10 Km distance walked to Rova Palace yesterday.The artificial lake was a beautiful sight amidst the traffic and buildings of Antananarivo.On inquiring about the bus to Imerintsiatosike was directed towards the flower market situated a few meters from the bus stop .During my recent travel in June to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan came across the most beautiful natural flower gardens and here in Antananarivo i was viewing the best assembled flower bouquets and cut flowers on display for sale.A very large market facing the main road and during my visit a busker was performing some acts on his loudspeaker music.
A "Scooter Taxi" rider agreed to take me to Imerintsiatosike and was happy that i was at least on the right track regarding transport to "Lemur's Park".I next entered "Anosy Lake" garden on payment of 5000 Ariary and found a few young couples in blissful romantic mood inside this well maintained garden .
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| A section of Analakely vegetables market |
In the middle of the lake there is a island connected to the city by a Isthmus.There is a French monument on this island dedicated to those fallen during the First World War and is called "Monument Aux Morts".After a short brief stay inside the garden park walked out onto the street crossing the road and walked the short distance towards landmark Kianja Barea Mahamasina Municipal stadium, the largest sports stadium in Madagascar that is home to the sports of Rugby and football. Later boarded the now familiar crowded mini bus and was dropped at Analakely market.This time got to view the vegetable , fish and meat sections of the market.Crowded as usual and as far as density of population in Antananarivo is concerned i could compare the same to my home city Mumbai.Was finally back home away from home in "Room No 307" and as usual after a bath relaxed with music and the Internet.As usual a minimum of 3-4 hrs sleep and fresh again, a lifetime of insomnia routine that makes me compatible for "Nomadic Travel".One of the prime qualifications for longevity in travel to different countries is that besides a decent "Bank Balance" a person should be physically fit as well as be able to adjust to "Jet Lag" and "Time Zones". Ahoy ! So far so good .
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| At "LEMURS PARK" with free roaming Ring tailed Lemur's.Thanks to guide Mr Voaharinjaka Jonathan who spoke fluent english for this excellent photograph as well as educating me on the different lemur species in this private National park. Lemurs' Park (also known locally as Parc de lémuriens à Madagascar) is a small botanical garden and lemur reserve covering 5 ha (12 acres), and is located in Imerintsiatosike, 22 km (14 mi) southwest of Antananarivo. It was founded around 2000 CE by Laurent Amouric and Maxime Allorge. Most of its nine lemur species are free-ranging within the park, which also contains more than 70 of Madagascar's endemic plant species.Most of the park's lemurs were confiscated pets, entrusted to the park by the Ministry of Water and Forests. The lemurs are rehabilitated and bred for reintroduction into the wild. The park also collaborates with Colas Madagascar and TOTAL Madagascar to provide environmental education to local primary school children and to plant native trees as part of a reforestation program. Most of the park's staff come from the neighboring communities.(Source :- Wikipedia) |
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| Thanks to motorcycle "Taxi Driver" Alain that we safely rode 22Km from Antananarivo to Lemurs Park in Imerintsiatosike. Here we are outside the main gate of "LEMURS PARK". I was the first tourist of the day at 0900 hrs when the park opened. After the guided tour of "Lemurs Park" we rode safely back 22 Kms to Antananarivo,so a total of 44 Kms riding "Piggyback" on a "Motorcycle Taxi". A Ride to remember for the dangerous narrow roads and heavy traffic towards the city. |
Thursday(5/9/2024) Antananarivo :- Was awake at mid morning and switching on the T.V got to view a concert of Elton John and later channel surfing chanced upon a few interviews on the "Red Carpet" of the "Venice Film Festival",most importantly Daniel.Craig in a different role from his usual"007" franchisee image .Believe it or not his next film is "Queer".Truth is stranger than fiction.This hotel's T.V had 8 channels with "Channel -2" being a permanent sports channel mostly broadcasting football with the language being French. "No 8 Channel" was a news channel broadcasting in French language. Strangely although the hotel didn't have a single "English T.V Channel" in individual rooms for its resident guests it was only English classic Rock and Pop music and not French music similarly EPL football and not "French League Football" that played continuously in the plush lobby/restaurant of the hotel .Majority of guests were Caucasian and French speaking and hence amazed at the total "English" music and T.V in the plush lounge restaurant. Truth is stranger than fiction.After breakfast at 0700 hrs walked out of the hotel into the chill morning cold and onto the adjacent street next to the hotel.Luck favoured me and immediately boarded a jam packed crowded local bus akin to boarding a packed local train at peak office hours in my home city of Mumbai.
As a Nomadic traveller adjusting to new places and circumstances is the main qualification to be successful in travel and the most important aptitude for non-luxurious adventure travel.
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| Whale Bones and extinct Madagascar Pygmy Hippopotamus skull on display inside the reception centre Of " LEMURS PARK ". |
Anyone who has visited 50 + Countries in their lifetime have definitely travelled "SOLO" to a few countries.After a short travel packed like a sardine finally reached destination Lake Anosy.Walked the short distance to the flower market and somehow managed to find a "Motorcycle Taxi" with a moderate hire charge of 30,000 Ariary to "Lemurs Park". Roads in Antananarivo are "Dirt race tracks" with bumps and heavy traffic but then its not always you can experience extreme sports as part of a motorcycle taxi ride. At 0740 hrs sat on the pillion while young 27 year old rider Alain started his "125CC Haojue" bike and off we rode in the cold cloudy morning with heavy traffic on the narrow road.The distance from Antananarivo to "Lemurs Park" is 22 kms and travel research told me it took a minimum of one to one and half hour to reach "Lemurs Park" in peak traffic.Approaching a bridge came across a convoy system of traffic passage and hence we had to wait for almost 10 minutes to let the opposite side traffic pass alongside us as the road was too narrow for 2- way traffic .
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| View of River Katsaoka flowing alongside " Lemurs Park ". This river forms one side of a natural boundary of " LEMURS PARK ". Notice the lush green cultivated fields in the distance. |
The ride was excellent reminding me of my own solo marathon rides back home in India and young Alain didn't try emulating Valentino Rossi on the road, a very safe " Motorcycle taxi driver".I was hoping it wouldn't rain as there were dark clouds above and occasionally droplets of rain.Finally at 0840 in a span of an hour reached the closed gate of "LEMURS PARK". The Park opens at 0900 hrs and i was the first tourist, much earlier than the park guides.Finally the Park guides arrived and i was the first tourist of the day to enter "Lemurs Park",one of the main reasons for visiting unique Madagascar.When you travel across 50 county's let alone 100 as i have i personally feel that as a tourist you have experienced the most of diverse cultures and historical exhibits .Hence having been born in Africa and having visited most of North,South and East Africa it was wildlife and nature that was of prime interest.Entrance fee to the park was 70,000 Ariary and at the entrance there is a exhibit of a whale skeleton and a now extinct Madagascar Pygmy Hippopotamus.
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| Guide Mr Voaharinjaka Jonathan was excellent.I was the first tourist in the park at 0900 hrs and it was " Breakfast Time" for the Lemurs .Hence got a close-up view of a few of the different Lemur species as they climbed down from the tree's for their first meal of the day. The Lemurs are fed thrice a day. |
My guide was Mr Voaharinjaka Jonathan who spoke fluent English and was excellent in explaining various locales of this park during our walk along the forest route. The River Katsaoka flows alongside the park and is one of the natural boundaries of this small private park.We first sighted a pair of Lemur's on a tree , the first time i saw Lemurs outside a zoo in a natural surrounding. As it was feeding time in the morning i was at the right place at the right time and our first sighting was the Sifaka breed of Lemurs ,absolutely accustomed to humans akin to domestic pets but living in the wild forest and not cages.Only difference between totally wild Lemurs and Lemurs of "Lemur Park" is that while wild Lemur's hunt for their food in the forest these semi tame Lemur's of Lemur Park are fed thrice a day by humans and if released in a natural forest would find it difficult to survive on their own.Walking down the pathway came across "Baby Baobab" tree's which although 20 years old resembled ordinary saplings."Lemur Park" is also involved in reforesting and hence saplings planted in the park for relocation to a forest reserve.
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| Crowned Sifaka Lemur carrying it's 2 month old baby in " Lemurs Park ". |
We next came across Macaque Lemurs all roaming within hand shaking distance in search of their morning breakfast.
It is a well set jungle trail in this small park and as Lemurs are territorial each breed keeps itself within a certain geographical location of this small park.
Next Jonathan showed me the national tree of Madagascar which is the "Travellers Tree"."Traveler's tree, (Ravenala madagascariensis)" is a plant of the family Strelitziaceae, so named because the water it accumulates in its leaf bases has been used in emergencies as drinking water in the absence of normal water while lost in a jungle or during extreme draught. The fan of the leaves also tends to grow roughly on an east-west line, providing a crude compass for travelers.
Our next stop was at the territory of the Crowned Sifaka Lemurs also called "Dancing Lemur's and the female Lemur was carrying a 2 month old baby clinging to her back.
As a speculator i was extremely lucky to videotape and see a rare occurence of a Lemur with its baby.They had come down from the tree as it was "Lemur Breakfast time" otherwise i would have never seen this natural sight outside a zoo.
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| Rescued " Star Tortoises " in Lemur's Park. |
A little further up the pathway came across the "Coquerel's Sifaka".As usual posed for photographs as in my lifetime i would never ever get within hand shaking distance of a semi-wild lemur.Next came across the "Black and White Ruffed Lemur" species busy having their morning breakfast. Visitors are not allowed to touch any of the Lemur's but honestly this is the closest a wild life enthusiast could get to a semi-wild Lemur.Our last view was the most popular of the Lemur breeds, the "Ring Tailed Lemur".In the popular animated English film "Madagascar" the main character is a Ring tailed Lemur called "King Julien".Finally made our way towards the entrance /exit and spotted a few Lemurs cuddled together high up on the tree.Wildlife sighting requires a lot of luck besides skill and a good eyesight for spotting wildlife.Came across a enclosure that had Star tortoises which seemed small in size but were at least 50 years old.
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| Large cage inside " Lemurs Park " where newly rescued Lemurs from the " Pet Trade" are kept until they get habituated to other Lemurs in the park and finally released into the wild open " Lemurs Park ". Notice a wild Lemur sitting on a tree above the cage. |
There is a separate enclosure at the corner of the park that houses newly arrived rescued lemurs to get them accustomed to viewing other Lemurs as well as conditioning for release in the park. Finally thanking Jonathan made my exit out of the park and was surprised to see a few cars and scooters parked outside indicating that the tourists were just arriving while i was lucky to be at the right time at feeding time of the Lemurs.The drive back to Antananarivo was pleasant passing alongside the Madagascar countryside where in some places rice cultivation was in progress with fields being ploughed by Zebu bulls.On reaching Anosy flower market paid Alain his taxi fare of 30,000 Ariary and hopped into a local packed bus and alighted at Analakely ,the last stop.Walked towards Independence avenue having large offices in the buildings and at the bank used my "Visa Travel Card" to withdraw money. A maximum of 8,00,000 Ariary can be withdrawn in a single transaction with a service charge of 9,500 Ariary for every 'Card Transaction". Travel educates.Later relaxed in my hotel room.
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| On the 22 Kms motorcycle ride back home to Antananarivo from Lemurs Park got a view of the beautiful rice cultivation fields and a Cyclist pedalling his way towards his destination. |
Lunch was at the familiar Malagasy "Restaurant Duo"which was packed to capacity at 1300 hrs and akin to Paris had my beer and lunch on the open air side pavement walkway watching the happenings in the most central locality of Antananarivo. Poverty is quite rampant in Antananarivo and at times young children pester for money or food.After a lavish simple lunch of Malagasy cuisine walked the short distance back to my hotel.I was extremely happy of fulfilling my desire of seeing lemurs from a close distance which was worth the status of being my hundredth country visited.Only hope this unique animal found only in Madagascar doesn't go extinct in the wild due to deforestation and human poaching.Don't forget that as in 2024 Madagascar ranks among the 10 most poor countries in the World and basic survival is a harsh truth for many Malagasy people and hence conservation of the country's unique flora and fauna could be of secondary importance.
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| After viewing Lemurs in the wild for the first time in my life lunch is normal " Malagasy Steak/ Rice" with the one and only " THB( 3 horse beer)" beer.Unlike in India the rice is served dry without curry and has to be eaten with the meat sauce . |
It is very easy for us "Wealthy Armchair Conservationists " to lecture and discuss about wildlife and forest conservation through the media and at coffee tables but to the average tribal Malagasy living in the harsh environment of these forests unless tourism itself provides a normal income the incentive to preserve the rare lemurs and its habitat has no practical value to them.Hope the "LEMURS" are preserved in their natural forests of Madagascar and not only in zoological parks across the Globe. Dinner was at the hotel's restaurant which was a routine omelet/ bread.Excellent restaurant with 24 hrs English music as well as English premier league football shown on the giant T.V.A total French theme hotel and excellently maintained barring the lack of a generator during occasional power outages.I didn't like the daily 3 floors stairs walk to my room although I walk kms on a average day.Inside my room it was warm but outside weather was cold.Packed my bag for the bus trip to Morondava to visit the " Avenue of Baobabs" as also to view the West sea coast of Madagascar.
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| The 696 Kms drive in this " Mercedes Sprinter " from Antananarivo to Morondava was akin to driving on a " Highway to Hell" ,the signature song by the Australian rock group " AC/DC" .The journey took us 17 hrs and the minibus was rattling for most of the journey.I was seated next to the driver and appreciated the skill of these drivers in avoiding the deep highway pot holes .It was akin to driving in the " Dakar Rally " . |
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| View of a section of Antananarivo to Morondava highway with its potholes.During my lifetime of road travel in India have travelled by car and ridden my motorcycle on worse road's than this but for not more than 2-3hrs at a stretch.Here in Madagascar this Antananarivo to Morondava road was potholed and uneven for almost 12-14 hrs of driving.The worst highway i have come across in my lifetime of travel across the Globe including home Country India. |
Friday(6/9/2024) Departure Antananarivo for Morondava:- Left my hotel in a vintage Antananarivo taxi at 0500 hrs and at 0515 hrs was at Ambodivona Cotisse Transport ,very early as usual.The main receptionist lobby and waiting hall opened at 0530 hrs and after getting my ticked checked had a breakfast of snack/ coffee.Departure was prompt at 0630 and I was seated on " Seat 1" next to the driver with a young Chinese lady tourist next to me .It was chill cold in Antananarivo and as our Mercedes mini bus made its journey little did I realize I would be experiencing my worst long distance highway journey due to indescribably bad roads.It was akin to driving in the " Dakar Rally" with large crater potholes every few meters and our driver having to use his experience and skill in avoiding these potholes.The distance between Antananarivo and Morondava is 696 Kms by road and is one of the most important tourist traffic highways in Madagascar.I was not surprized in seeing a major accident on our highway with a lorry having fallen into a ditch by the side of the highway and resting turtle.The entire highway was blocked as another lorry with a sling attached to it and fastened to the overturned truck was trying to remove the truck from the ditch.
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| Driving through Antsirabe City enroute to Morondava. Heavily populated city. |
After a long wait our driver managed to weave the bus through a narrow gap and we hit the highway driving at average speed ranging from 20 Km - 40 Km on the highway.Highest speed we attained in short bursts of clear road was 60- 80 Kms, the slowest I have experienced during my road travels. I presumed Madagascar as one of the most populated Countries in Africa seeing the population and vehicle density in Antananarivo but once out of the city onto the open countryside barring for the few crowded small towns the entire landscape represented desolate barren hills with terraced rice cultivation on some hills.Came across farmers cultivating their fields with ploughs using the Zebu bullocks for ploughing.Rice was the main cultivated crop.Lunch at 1400 hrs was in the town of Mandoto at " Relais de Mandoto" restaurant and hotel.Lunch was a " 3H" signature beer with excellent Tilapia fish and rice.In Malagasy cuisine rice is served without curry unlike Indian cuisine .After lunch continued with our onwards " Antananarivo- Morondava rally drive " with stoppages for toilet urinating by the countryside.After ages travelled on a long distance public bus with "Toilet Stoppages" along the highway at isolated pockets of forest.This happens only in Madagascar !.
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| Excellent Malagasy "Tilapia/Rice/THB " beer for lunch at "Relais de Mandoto" restaurant in the town of Mandoto.The onward road journey continued after lunch finally reaching Morondava at 2345 hrs. |
Extreme road travel adventure at its indescribably best akin to " Dakar Rally" which i have read about. Depends on how you enjoy the roller-coaster 17 hrs drive.Finally at 2345 hrs reached Morondava and as our bus entered the city passed alongside a large mosque ,the most imposing structure in Morondava. Streets were deserted and thankfully there were a few autorickshaw drivers awaiting our bus arrival.I had not pre-booked a hotel having randomly decided to visit Morondava. A rickshaw driver guided me in finding a hotel and since it was the week end most cheap hotel's were housefull.Finally got admission into " Tanjona Menabe Hotel" in Andakabe locality of Morondava and Ms Fanoja the receptionist allotted me a room in this huge hotel at a rental of 40,000 Ariary/ day . Thanking the helpful rickshaw driver after paying him 20,000 Ariary was shown " Room No 210" on the first floor of this sprawling hotel.Excellent single room, cosy and well maintained ,besides the weather in Morondava was pleasant and not cold unlike Antananarivo. After a cold water bath did get some sleep.
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| On "Road N0 8" at the "AVENUE OF BAOBABS".The Avenue of the Baobabs, or Alley of the Baobabs, is a prominent group of Grandidier's baobabs (Adansonia grandidieri) lining the unpaved Road No.8 between Morondava and Belon'i Tsiribihina in the Menabe region of western Madagascar. Its striking landscape draws travelers from around the world, making it one of the most visited locations in the region. It has been a center of local conservation efforts, and was granted temporary protected status in July 2007 by the Ministry of Environment, Water and Forestry .This is a step toward making it Madagascar's first natural monument.(Source :- Wikipedia) |
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| "Tanjona Menabe Hotel " in Andakabe locality of Morondava. My residence in Morondava. Eerily, this massive 2-storey hotel with its numerous rooms reminded me of the "Chawl Buildings" of my home city of Mumbai in India. Excellent "5 G Orange Internet" at the reception lobby but not in the small cosy self contained rooms of the hotel. |
Saturday (7/9/2024):- Morondava :- As usual after a short nap was awake and since Internet is not available in the rooms went to the reception on the ground floor and got in touch with the digital World, also updating my travelogue.Morondava is located in the delta of the Morondava river in the Menabe region of Madagascar of which it is the capital .Seems a different country in comparison to Madagascar capital Antananarivo and the major tribe is the Sakalava tribe.Besides the majority Sakalava tribe there are a few among the local population belonging to the Betsileo, Tsimihety, Merina and Makoa tribes as well as French Europeans. Weather was warm and at daybreak ventured out into the town.Had my first cup of tea at the local street vendor,just boiled tea without milk.Breakfast was at plush 70 year old Parisian style " Bistraut de Madaba" restaurant situated on the main road.Excellent " French bread hot dog omelette " with milkless tea.After breakfast walked the short distance to my hotel and inquired of transport to " Avenue of Baobabs".
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| Breakfast " Parisian style " at " Bistraut de Madaba " restaurant in Morondava. " French bread hot dog omelette/ Tea " Bread of Madagascar is awesome and a replica of bread baked in France. |
The hotel receptionist arranged a autorickshaw driver Mr Henintsoa to take me to the " Avenue of Baobabs " and also further to the one and only " Amoreux " tree at a cost of 1,30,000 Ariary.At 0900 hrs began our 17 Km drive to " Avenue of Baobabs " .The young driver took a shortcut and got my first experience of the topography of Morondava villages, the sand being soft akin to desert sand.Came across the Zebu cattle being used to pull carts and Morondava was a sharp contrast to the crowded traffic jammed capital city of Antananarivo. Life was typical of a village, slow paced and less of a crowd with cycle rickshaws a popular mode of transport.From the village sand tracks we finally entered onto the main road which was a beautiful maintained road in sharp contrast to the national highway from Antananarivo to Morondava.
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| " Zebu Cart" on " Road N08 ", the desert sand road to the " Avenue of Baobabs ". Zebu cattle are the prized possession of the Malagasy people. |
Our final drive from the main road into the sand road leading to " Avenue of Baobabs" was a nightmare as a autorickshaw having 3 wheels is not suited for maneuvering on soft deep sand.Got to view the basic simple living of the villagers of Morondava with the thatched huts and bamboo or wood fencing as boundaries.Came across cultivated rice fields and Zebu cattle and goats grazing on barren fields.Typical village only difference this was Madagascar in Africa.As we slowly progressed on the sand road came across scattered Baobab tree's, a beautiful sight as these species of trees stand out among other tree species or fields due to their size and height.Passed alongside a rare " Twin Baobab" tree" uncommon among the numerous Baoba's in the vicinity.Finally we arrived at " Avenue of Baobabs " and the professional print and bloggers description of this unique sight didn't disappoint me and lived up to its status as the top topography site to visit in Madagascar.
We first decided to travel further and first visit the " Amoreux Baobab " tree which was a ride akin to driving or riding in the desert.
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| Main entrance to " Avenue of Baobabs " on " Road N0 8 ".Car park is to the right of this desert sand road.Famous for Sunrise and Sunset when it gets crowded with tourists. |
Twice our automotive bogged down in the soft sand and I had to get down and guide the young driver as to the route to be taken on harder sand.
It was blistering hot sunshine but cool breeze that made this travel on the desert sand road bearable and a pleasure.Extreme " 3- Wheel driving" on soft sand,something I experienced for the first time.Finally with great suspense and hoping the autorickshaw would not stall reached the locale of " Amoureux Baobab ",a freak of a tree combination that is now folklore and a legend.There were a few local village tourist stalls near the site and just for memory purchased the model of a miniature " Amoureux Baobab ".I am happy as a bachelor.
From the " Amoureux Baobab " we retraced our track back to the " Avenue of Baobabs".Young village children pester tourists for money but otherwise very safe and excellent tourist attraction of Madagascar.
I was the lone tourist at the odd hour of 1130 hrs as majority of tourists arrive in hordes to witness Sunrise and Sunset at the " Avenue of Baobabs".As for me travelling across 100 countries around the Globe have satisfied my sightings of unique Sunrises and Sunsets at historical locations or natural location .There was a local school near the " Avenue of Baobabs " and also got to experience and view rudimentary village living of the locals.Finally after satisfying my viewing as well as photography we drove back towards Morondava Town.Lunch was steak/ potato chips at " Sam .Suffy",a 80 year old family restaurant run from their cute French style bungalow residence.Cost of living in Morondava is much cheaper than Antananarivo without a drop in quality.The owner of this restaurant that also serves takeaway orders was a elderly lady who although claimed she didn't know English understood me very well and honestly French and Malagasy language rule in Madagascar.
With English language a tourist is lost and thanks to.my reams of travel research that I find my way across city's where English language is not popular.
Excellent lunch with " 3H" beer replacing water, a very mild form of beer and cost only 5000 Ariary in a restaurant in comparison to 7000 and 9000 Ariary in the plush hotels/ restaurants of Antananarivo. Travel educates.After lunch relaxed and in the evening had a walk in the vicinity of my hotel, typical Malagasy country style houses and relaxed lifestyle.Dinner was Barbeque fish and chips at the same country house bungalow restaurant " Sam.Suffy".Felt i was eating in a private accomodation rather than a common restaurant. There was a continuous sound of prayers from the towns imposing Mosque.After dinner walked round the corner back to the hotel. Morondava town is typical village environment beyond the main road.There is load shedding at times in Morondava akin to Antananarivo.
From the " Amoureux Baobab " we retraced our track back to the " Avenue of Baobabs".Young village children pester tourists for money but otherwise very safe and excellent tourist attraction of Madagascar.
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| Rare " Twin Baobab " tree.The vicinity of " Avenue of Baobabs " have numerous Baobab tree's within the locale. |
I was the lone tourist at the odd hour of 1130 hrs as majority of tourists arrive in hordes to witness Sunrise and Sunset at the " Avenue of Baobabs".As for me travelling across 100 countries around the Globe have satisfied my sightings of unique Sunrises and Sunsets at historical locations or natural location .There was a local school near the " Avenue of Baobabs " and also got to experience and view rudimentary village living of the locals.Finally after satisfying my viewing as well as photography we drove back towards Morondava Town.Lunch was steak/ potato chips at " Sam .Suffy",a 80 year old family restaurant run from their cute French style bungalow residence.Cost of living in Morondava is much cheaper than Antananarivo without a drop in quality.The owner of this restaurant that also serves takeaway orders was a elderly lady who although claimed she didn't know English understood me very well and honestly French and Malagasy language rule in Madagascar.
With English language a tourist is lost and thanks to.my reams of travel research that I find my way across city's where English language is not popular.
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| Tribal village houses in vicinity of " Avenue of Baobabs ". |
Excellent lunch with " 3H" beer replacing water, a very mild form of beer and cost only 5000 Ariary in a restaurant in comparison to 7000 and 9000 Ariary in the plush hotels/ restaurants of Antananarivo. Travel educates.After lunch relaxed and in the evening had a walk in the vicinity of my hotel, typical Malagasy country style houses and relaxed lifestyle.Dinner was Barbeque fish and chips at the same country house bungalow restaurant " Sam.Suffy".Felt i was eating in a private accomodation rather than a common restaurant. There was a continuous sound of prayers from the towns imposing Mosque.After dinner walked round the corner back to the hotel. Morondava town is typical village environment beyond the main road.There is load shedding at times in Morondava akin to Antananarivo.
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| Morondava Fishing Village. |
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| Pirogue boat ride through the scenic " Mangrove Forests " of Morondava Fishing village. Notice the calmness of the sea water. Akin to being in a swimming pool rather than the Indian Ocean."MANGROVE FORESTS" are natural barricades against sea storms. PRESERVE MANGROVE FORESTS. |
Sunday(8/9/2024)Morondava:- At 0600 hrs Henintsoa the autorickshaw driver arrived at the hotel reception and together we proceeded to destination Morondava fishing village.It was a straight route on the main road in the opposite direction of the road to " Avenue of Baobabs ".The landmark building in Morondava is a Mosque and on approaching towards the Mosque inquired about the local Catholic church to which he pointed towards a church steeple, in close proximity to the Mosque.Finally at 0615 was at the fishing village with various piroques( Canoe fishing boats in French) in the water or resting ashore on the sand.Henintso approached a fisherman Toma who arranged to take me on a pirogue boat ride along the mangrove forests at a cost of 40,000 Ariary .Thanking autorickshaw driver Henintsoa waited ashore while Toma and his assistant launched their pirogue onto the sea from the beach where it was beached.
After the pirogue was floated got into the long narrow boat and sat in the centre while Toma and his assistant on either ends of the boat used paddled to set the boat in motion as well as maneuvering.
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| Beached Pirogues in Morondava at Low Tide |
The ambiance of the calm sea in the early morning was indescribable .We rowed on the narrow channel between two mangrove plantations.Later rowing across the fishing coast came across excellent sea facing resorts as well as normal boat employees indulging in their normal daily duty.Was finally dropped off at the fishing pier that was absolutely rustic and got a feel of the life of the average Morondava fisherfolk.Narrow lane and small houses with wooden fencing as is the case in villages in Morondava. Breakfast was local tea without milk and boiled cassava.Kassava and sweet potatoes seem to be the staple diet for breakfast among the fisherfolk of Morondava. After spending a few minutes in the vicinity of the fishing village hired a tricycle taxi to take me to Morondava beach.On the was came across a group of mourners leading a funeral with the deceased being carried in a coffin on a open air vehicle.
Finally reached Morondava beach and it was low tide with me being the lone tourist early in the morning.
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| Morondava Fishing village houses and shops along the coastline. |
A young local approached me for a pirogue ride as also in assisting me as a guide to which I refused and he was helpful in helping me take a few photo's as well as produce a video while having a dip in the sea.Finally after satisfying myself of having a dip in the Indian Ocean off the coast of unique island country Madagascar made got dressed and thanks to the young local man was escorted to the main road.Main Morondava town is small having a main road passing through the town and hence decided to walk back to Tanjona Menabe hotel while doing local street sightseeing on my way to home away from home.The street market had opened and hawkers were busy selling various vegetables and fruits ,most common fruits being bananas.All streets had narrow alleys with markets and chickens were sold in baskets or on the street sidewalks as also ducks.
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| Landmark Khoja Shia Ithna Asheri Mosque in Morondava. |
Walked towards the imposing Mosque and then further down the road came across the "Eglise Catholic Church".Today was the " Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary" also called the " Birthday of Mother Mary" a very sacred day for Catholics around the Globe.I decided to visit the church and to my astonishment made my entry into the crowded ground of the church just as a group of priests began the ritual High Mass for the Feast of Nativity of Blessed Virgin Mary".Got a seat on a bench in the extreme back row and as a practising Catholic got to pray and understand the rituals of service of mass in Morondava. The language was Malagasy and almost the entire mass consisted of gospel songs and a bit of dancing to the tune of the gospel hymns .This was the longest mass I attended in my lifetime with the service lasting 3 hours was happy to see a very young congregation actively I solved in praying and dancing to gospel music unlike my observation of empty palatial churches of Europe.
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| " Eglise Catholic Church ".in Morondava Attended Sunday Mass held on the Church grounds which lasted over 3 hours .Madagascar has a majority Catholic population. |
Within this century the next Pope would definitely be from African continent. Lunch was " Zebu/ Rice" with beer in the open air sidewalk of " Bistraut de Madaba " where I had breakfast yesterday morning.After lunch updated my travelogue in the reception room of the restaurant and relaxed in my cosy room .In the evening my last dinner in Morondava was at the heritage bungalow " Sam.Suffy" owned by a old couple Sam and Sophie and i presume hence the name of this restaurant. .Today I had a good look inside the bungalow that has definitely seen better days over it's 80 year old existence and felt I was translocated to a private museum.Vintage nude photos, typical French lined the pub corner with " Olympique Marseille" football team banner fixed to the ceiling.In the main dining hall of the bungalow were framed black and white photos of Madagascar .Will miss Morondava for its relaxed country style living irrespective of a different race of people, language and culture
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| Madagascar Village commune.Entire structure of wood and forest products although some houses have brick walls.The house boundary fences is made of wood. |
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| Street market on pavement in Morondava. |
Monday(9/9/2024)Departure Morondava:- At 0400 hrs the autorickshaw driver Mr Baluda arrived at the hotel and drove me to Cotisse Transport Office situated in the direction of the beach.On arrival at the office was shocked to realize my confirmed ticket booked in Antananarivo was cancelled because I didn't pay the ticket money which I presumed had to be paid on the day of travelling on the bus.As a " SPECULATOR INVESTOR" I have come across enough " Heart Attack" shocks and hence this was a mild setback to my " SOLO TRAVEL" plans.Returned back to my hotel resigned to the fact that I would have to spend a extra day or two in " One Zebu town" of Morondava which besides it's laid back village lifestyle and World famous " Avenue of Baobabs " and beaches has nothing else of historical significance.Suddenly lightning struck me and I got a brainwave of checking tickets in " SoatransPlus transport company" for bus tickets to Antananarivo. On inquiry with the receptionist was told it was walking distance from " Tanjona Menabe Hotel".
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| At classic bungalow restaurant "SamSaffy" with memorabilia photographs of Madagascar and antique artifacts. |
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| On the tricycle taxi to " Soatrans Plus" Transport office in Morondava |
Missing the Cotisse Transport bus at 0400 hrs due to my stupidity in booking resulted in me getting a better booking deal on SoatransPlus transport company with a very flexible timing and also departure on the same day.Truth is stranger than fiction.Relaxed in the hotel reception which was the only place that had excellent " Internet" in this sprawling hotel complex.A hawker came to sell live ducks in the hotel , common on the market streets of Morondava and on inquiry was told the cost of a live duck was 20,000 Ariary.This happens only in the towns of the African continent. Lunch was early Checked out of " Tanjona Menabe Hotel " and hired a cycle rickshaw to drop me at Soatrans transport office.Before departure the male ticket issuing employee said a small prayer in Malagasy language.The "Mercedes Sprinter" minibus was housefull with 15 passengers and two drivers with me in "Seat No1" sitting next to the driver, the same seating arrangement as on my arrival to Morondava in the "Cotisse Mercedes Sprint" bus.
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| 696 Kms road travel from Morondava to Antananarivo on Sautrans bus. |
This is the worst seat as you have no leg room as the gear shifting handle next to the driver comes in the way of your legs and 17 hrs travel in this sitting posture is torture.No wonder this seat was always available and i was the "guinea pig" although it solved my purpose of getting a bus ticket in peak tourist season.Most high spending tourists fly from Antananarivo to Morondava by plane and its only budget backpackers and locals who use the torturous 17 hours bus ride road route through definitely one of the World's worst continuous highways.All these mini buses are packed with overhead luggage to the maximum capacity.At 1210 hrs our bus finally departed from "SoatransPlus Bus terminus" and headed north of the town passing alongside the "Avenue of Baobabs" locale which is the only place that has numerous baobab tree's in one area.Passed alongside rice cultivated fields, the prime cultivated crop in this region of Madagascar.The Sun's rays was at its afternoon peak and as we drove got to view the living and thatched roof houses of the tribal villagers of Madagascar.A day and night living difference between housing in the city and town, absolutely basic rudimentary huts made of wood or baked mud and fenced with bamboo's.
Cute to view as a tourist but definitely not comfortable living in the intense heat.
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| Passing alongside a village market on Morondava- Antananarivo Highway. |
Passed along a few bridges whose river beds were totally dry.Had one or two stops mid-way on the highway for urinating in the bushes.Came across trees having bright white flowers otherwise entire landscape was parched and dry.Finally from the coastline began our ascent into the mountains and at 1745 hrs reached the town of Miandrivazo where the drivers changed duties, the driver sitting next to me took the steering while the one on duty relaxed in his place.Excellent local Malagasy as well as a few classic English songs was played continuously but the pot-holed highway was a nightmare for the driver and a torture for seated passengers.Dinner at 2130 hrs was "Malagasy fish/rice" at a small restaurant on the highway .After dinner it was a direct drive to Antananarivo with a abrupt change from warm coastal weather to chill cold mountain weather of Madagascar.
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| At the entrance to Ambohimanga Rova Palace.The Royal Hill of Ambohimanga is the cradle of the kingdom and the dynasty that has made Madagascar a modern state, internationally acknowledged since 1817. It is associated with strong feelings of identity and emotion relating to the sacred nature of the site through its venerated royal tombs, its numerous holy places (fountains, sacred basins and woods, sacrificial stones) and its majestic royal trees. Religious capital and sacred town of the kingdom of Madagascar in the 19th century, the Royal Hill was the burial ground for its sovereigns.The royal tombs demolished by the French colonial authorities, were rebuilt in 2008 by the Malagasy State respecting the rites, the construction regulations and traditional materials (for the choice of wood essences in particular), due to their symbolic importance. Thus, the mortal remains of the sovereigns removed from the site in 1897 have been replaced in their original tombs to consolidate the sacredness of the site. It is associated with strong feelings of national identity, and has maintained its spiritual and sacred character both in ritual practice and the popular imagination for the past 500 years. It remains a place of worship to which pilgrims come from Madagascar and elsewhere.(Source :- Extracts from UNESCO) |
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| Scooter taxi rider Tolotra refuelling for the long 25 Km ride to Ambohimanga Rova Palace. Learnt the art of travelling pillion on a 2-wheeler with a "Backpack". Notice my "Backpack" is harnessed forward to my chest and not my back as is the normal method. Safe and prevention of "Backpack Pickpocketing" ! |
Tuesday(10/9/2024)Arrival Antananarivo from Morondava:- At 0515 hrs, after 17 hrs on a bumpy highway road was finally at the "Soatrans bus terminus" in Antananarivo. Hired the cute Vintage "Renault " taxi for 10,000 Ariary and was back to home away from home "Le Relais Normand" .Checked into my " Room No 307" and after a jacuzzi style bath headed for breakfast.
After breakfast walked down to Analakely market to inquire regarding transport to Ambohimanga Rova Palace but as usual no body understood me nor I them and after purchasing a juicy pineapple from the crowded market headed back to the hotel.Excellent pineapple and later googled Ambohimanga and taking a screenshot of the name and address on my mobile phone headed out of the hotel and approached a young group of " 2- Wheeler taxi drivers" outside the hotel. Young 22 year old scooter taxi driver Mr Tolotra agreed to be my driver at a fee of 60,000 Ariary for a return journey along with waiting time for sightseeing.
Ambohimanga is approximately 25 Kms from Antananarivo and at 1000 hrs we began our marathon ride after filling up the scooter fuel tank.It was a long ride and young Taxi rider Mr Tolotra rode like he was a fan of Valentino.Rossi with me reminding him to slow down.Passed alongside the tallest building in Madagascar which is the " Orange Telecommunications Building" having 33 floors and 123 m( 410ft) in height." Airtel" telecommunications of India also has a big coverage in Madagascar.Having just arrived from a 17 hrs bumpy road drive my backside was sore and it got worse during the long motorcycle ride.Finally at 1050 hrs after a steep uphill drive reached the ticket gate of Ambohimanga Rova Palace. Purchased the entry ticket costing 15,000 Ariary and young maverick scooter taxidriver Tolotra accompanied me on a steep uphill walk upto the main entrance gate of the Palace.On entering the Palace grounds was approached by young guide Ms Emma who spoke excellent English and thanks to her I understood a bit of Malagese history as well as the history of this Palace.On the main ground entrance to the palace at the end of a large elongated stairway is a 300 year old Fig tree which has 12 small stones around the tree.
The kings 12 official wives would sit around this tree while he gave them a discourse.
Also near the entrance stairs is the " Zebu sacrificial" location where Zebu cattle was sacrificed in honour of the king.Only special Zebu cattle having a white mark on its forehead were selected for sacrifice and their skull hung on a tree near the sacrificial ground.There were numerous skulls on the branches of this tree and even today " Zebu Sacrifices " are done at this same location.After slaughter of the Zebu the animal was skinned on a special heart shaped stone situated on the ground in front of the " Zebu sacrificial" locale.We next entered the " Kings Palace" made of Rosewood and maintained in its original form.A person could only enter the King's Palace by stepping into the Palace with his right foot first.All this superstitious belief in Malagasy culture is called " Faddy" and strictly observed within various tribes of Madagascar.
The interior of the house of King Andrianampoinimerina called "King's Palace" resembled a large hall of a common modern day living accomodation, unbelievable that once a mighty ruler lived in this small Palace.Seems the king was very short in stature only 1.45m tall and the original Malagese were of Pygmy race origin before various other races intermingled through marriage resulting in a very diverse race of Malagasy peoples .The King slept on a higher bed while his wife slept on a lower smaller bed and children were not allowed into the Palace.There was a separate door for guests to enter.Weapons like spears as well as various utensils were displayed inside this small Palace.Photography was strictly prohibited.From the " Kings Palace" we entered the " Queen's Summer Palace" situated next door adjacent to the " King's Palace ".It was large, having 2 storeys and designed by a French architect and hence totally European in style and decor.
There was a photograph of the Queen in this Palace. From the " Queen's Summer Palace" we walked up to the " Watch Tower" within the Palace grounds that gave a excellent bird's eye view of the surrounding valley of Antananarivo. With my binoculars could view the planes in the airport,a long distance away.From the " Watchtower" we next visited the " Royal Tombs" situated on higher ground behind the palaces.Above the burial tombs on a little higher ground of this small hill were two swimming pools meant for bathing.The larger pool was used by the Queen while the smaller pool by the King.On the edge of the hill of the Palace grounds were 2 ornamental cannons that were never ever used in any warfare.
After completion of the Palace visit thanked guide Ms Emma and made my way downhill to the exit.Met scooter taxi driver Tolotra and it was a fast ride back to the hotel passing alongside paddy rice fields and Lake Masay which seemed cleaner than Lake Anosey .Lunch was excellent Malagasy Tilapia fried fish with rice and normal beer instead of water, something different and costing 32,000 Ariary.Was surprized that "Le Relais Normand " Hotel served some of the best Malagasy food .Relaxed in my hotel.After Sunset ,once the street markets close shop the entire " Petit Vitesse" street outside " Le Relais Normand " hotel gets deserted resembling a ghost street in comparison to bustling hawkers,people and traffic during daylight hours.Its also dangerous to walk alone at night in this vicinity, the only drawback of this plush and oldest hotel in the vicinity built in 1950.
When it it was first built in 1950 this hotel must have been the talk of the city of Antananarivo. Today in the 21st century the simple fact that this hotel doesnt have a " LIFT/ ELEVATOR" is its major handicap and i wonder how this chic classic hotel will overcome this business disadvantage.Change is permanent in life and lifestyle.Ahoy !In fact the interior decor of this French era hotel resembles a private museum with photo's and portraits on the hotel lobby walls as well as antique memorabilia. In this hotel all the receptionists spoke English language and Mr Fely who was always on the reception computer was helpful in answering certain travel questions.A good 4 hrs sleep after almost two sleepless nights.Being a Insomniac has its travel advantages .
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| House of King Andrianampoinimerina inside Ambohimanga Rova Palace grounds called "Kings Palace".This " Kings Palace " is a single room wooden house.The Kings bed was raised above the floor and his wife slept in a seperate bed. |
Ambohimanga is approximately 25 Kms from Antananarivo and at 1000 hrs we began our marathon ride after filling up the scooter fuel tank.It was a long ride and young Taxi rider Mr Tolotra rode like he was a fan of Valentino.Rossi with me reminding him to slow down.Passed alongside the tallest building in Madagascar which is the " Orange Telecommunications Building" having 33 floors and 123 m( 410ft) in height." Airtel" telecommunications of India also has a big coverage in Madagascar.Having just arrived from a 17 hrs bumpy road drive my backside was sore and it got worse during the long motorcycle ride.Finally at 1050 hrs after a steep uphill drive reached the ticket gate of Ambohimanga Rova Palace. Purchased the entry ticket costing 15,000 Ariary and young maverick scooter taxidriver Tolotra accompanied me on a steep uphill walk upto the main entrance gate of the Palace.On entering the Palace grounds was approached by young guide Ms Emma who spoke excellent English and thanks to her I understood a bit of Malagese history as well as the history of this Palace.On the main ground entrance to the palace at the end of a large elongated stairway is a 300 year old Fig tree which has 12 small stones around the tree.
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| "Summer house of the Queens". Queen Ranavalona I reigned for 33 long years and she was using this place as a retreat from Antananarivo where the capital had been moved to from Ambohimanga. Her French lover ,the architect Jean Laborde designed this 2 storey summer palace and he was the only foreign national admired by the queen. In 1847 architect Laborde was expelled because of his involvement in a plot to replace the queen with her son.This palace interiors are totally European in design and furniture in sharp contrast to the small "Kings Palace" situated adjacent to it. |
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| Sovereigns enthronement stone and Zebu sacrificial location. |
Also near the entrance stairs is the " Zebu sacrificial" location where Zebu cattle was sacrificed in honour of the king.Only special Zebu cattle having a white mark on its forehead were selected for sacrifice and their skull hung on a tree near the sacrificial ground.There were numerous skulls on the branches of this tree and even today " Zebu Sacrifices " are done at this same location.After slaughter of the Zebu the animal was skinned on a special heart shaped stone situated on the ground in front of the " Zebu sacrificial" locale.We next entered the " Kings Palace" made of Rosewood and maintained in its original form.A person could only enter the King's Palace by stepping into the Palace with his right foot first.All this superstitious belief in Malagasy culture is called " Faddy" and strictly observed within various tribes of Madagascar.
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| The Royal Tombs.First white colored Tomb is the " Queens Tomb" and next to it the smaller tomb is the "Kings Tomb".. |
The interior of the house of King Andrianampoinimerina called "King's Palace" resembled a large hall of a common modern day living accomodation, unbelievable that once a mighty ruler lived in this small Palace.Seems the king was very short in stature only 1.45m tall and the original Malagese were of Pygmy race origin before various other races intermingled through marriage resulting in a very diverse race of Malagasy peoples .The King slept on a higher bed while his wife slept on a lower smaller bed and children were not allowed into the Palace.There was a separate door for guests to enter.Weapons like spears as well as various utensils were displayed inside this small Palace.Photography was strictly prohibited.From the " Kings Palace" we entered the " Queen's Summer Palace" situated next door adjacent to the " King's Palace ".It was large, having 2 storeys and designed by a French architect and hence totally European in style and decor.
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| Large Queen's Swimming pool situated above the burial tombs.The Queen used to bathe accompanied by 70 virgins. |
There was a photograph of the Queen in this Palace. From the " Queen's Summer Palace" we walked up to the " Watch Tower" within the Palace grounds that gave a excellent bird's eye view of the surrounding valley of Antananarivo. With my binoculars could view the planes in the airport,a long distance away.From the " Watchtower" we next visited the " Royal Tombs" situated on higher ground behind the palaces.Above the burial tombs on a little higher ground of this small hill were two swimming pools meant for bathing.The larger pool was used by the Queen while the smaller pool by the King.On the edge of the hill of the Palace grounds were 2 ornamental cannons that were never ever used in any warfare.
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| Tour of Ambohimanga Rova Palace with Tour guide Ms Emma. |
After completion of the Palace visit thanked guide Ms Emma and made my way downhill to the exit.Met scooter taxi driver Tolotra and it was a fast ride back to the hotel passing alongside paddy rice fields and Lake Masay which seemed cleaner than Lake Anosey .Lunch was excellent Malagasy Tilapia fried fish with rice and normal beer instead of water, something different and costing 32,000 Ariary.Was surprized that "Le Relais Normand " Hotel served some of the best Malagasy food .Relaxed in my hotel.After Sunset ,once the street markets close shop the entire " Petit Vitesse" street outside " Le Relais Normand " hotel gets deserted resembling a ghost street in comparison to bustling hawkers,people and traffic during daylight hours.Its also dangerous to walk alone at night in this vicinity, the only drawback of this plush and oldest hotel in the vicinity built in 1950.
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| Riding past Lake Masay in Antananarivo |
When it it was first built in 1950 this hotel must have been the talk of the city of Antananarivo. Today in the 21st century the simple fact that this hotel doesnt have a " LIFT/ ELEVATOR" is its major handicap and i wonder how this chic classic hotel will overcome this business disadvantage.Change is permanent in life and lifestyle.Ahoy !In fact the interior decor of this French era hotel resembles a private museum with photo's and portraits on the hotel lobby walls as well as antique memorabilia. In this hotel all the receptionists spoke English language and Mr Fely who was always on the reception computer was helpful in answering certain travel questions.A good 4 hrs sleep after almost two sleepless nights.Being a Insomniac has its travel advantages .
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| At Tsimbazaza zoo in Antananarivo. Founded in 1925, it includes a large lake, a botanical garden and a zoo. |
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| Nocturnal Lemur. |
Wednesday(11/9/2024) Antananarivo:- There was no Internet WiFi connectivity in the hotel room and on switching the T.V watched a programme on film production during the cold war era.Later got to watch the first Presidential debate between Presidential candidates Donald Trump and Kamala Harris which was instantaneously translated into French language and hence couldn't follow the debate.Later some classical Opera music and Malagasy gospel music.Had to walk 3 floors down to the main receptionist lobby to access WiFi, the lifeline of a " Solo Traveller".After breakfast walked the short distance to the " Bus Stop" and boarded the bus presuming to would go to Anosy Lake.I was wrong and alighted at Analakely market inquiring for the bus to Tsimbazaza zoo. Asking directions finally reached outside " Hotel- Restaurant Des Artiste" ,the Paris expat Cafe in Antananarivo. Was told to board the " No 115 bus" to Tsimbazaza zoo which as is the case got packed to capacity.
These so called " Public buses" in Antananarivo are mini buses and always packed to capacity with well to do Malagasy locals travelling by these buses.
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| Large Lake inside Tsimbazaza Zoo.The narrow artificial island on this lake houses free roaming Lemurs.This is the only zoo of its kind in Madagascar and on November 1989, the WWF celebrated its tenth year in Madagascar by opening an environmental teaching center at the zoo.A real treasure for botanists, the park shows the typical vegetation of all regions of Madagascar. The southern part is for example very well represented with the didieracea or the pachypodiums. The other regions of Madagascar are not left out, because we find in Tsimbazaza several kinds of palm trees, water banana trees,ravinala or traveler's tree, orchids and spices, including vanilla and pepper.(Source :-Wikipedia,Internet Research) |
At 0845 hrs reached the entrance gate of Tsimbazaza zoo and as I was early tasted the street food soup of Antananarivo that was cheap at 1600 Ariary and good for the cost of the dish, popular among locals.
At 0900 hrs after paying a entrance fee of 15000 Ariary was the first tourist of the day to enter the zoo.During my " Travel Research" had read some horrible reviews of this zoo regarding the maintenance and upkeep of the Lemurs.Was prepared for the worst and was surprised on entering the zoo to see all the literature and signboards in Malagasy and French language. First came across the birds enclosure with a few birds that i could identify which included the peacock.Came across the raptors enclosure ,most prominently being the " Madagascar Fishing eagle" but since description signboard was in French/ Malagasy couldn't identify these species of raptors.Came across the Nile crocodile enclosure that had a beautiful large crocodile basking in the Sun out of the water.Next came across the Lemur enclosure where a lone " Black and White Ruffed Lemur" was as friendly as a pet and one of the reasons Lemur's are facing extinction due to the brisk pet trade in these animals.
This particular locale of the zoo had all Lemur enclosures but all descriptions and nameplates were in French and Malagasy languages.
Came across the brown Lemur, Mongoose Lemur ,Bamboo lemur and the rare Caracal Lemur that is nocturnal by nature and was the smallest of the Lemur species .I had seen different species of Lemurs in " Lemur Park" and now here in Tsimbazaza zoo. There are 2 large lakes in the zoo which have small artificial island's on which Lemurs are enclosed in the open air.Unlike enclosed cages the viewer gets to view the Lemurs in the outdoors with the lake water playing the role of a enclosed cage.One lake has a huge nesting colony of Herons and called Lac Herioniere .Later on payment of 10,000 Ariary visited the museum of " Natural History" situated next to the zoo .Excellent collection of Madagascar fauna but all the literature was in French language.
The museum is the best attraction as it has fossil and skeletal remains of the Dinosaurus, Pygmy Hippopotamus,huge extinct Lemurs and the 3 meter tall " Elephant Bird" along with its large egg that resembles a oversized Ostrich egg.
From the museum made my way back to the zoo and visited the " Palmetum Section" that had a large collection of different variety of cultivated palm tree's.This section of the zoo also had 3 giant Aldabra tortoises which were busy munching lettuce leaves when I visited their enclosure.Finally decided to make my exit and after a short wait boarded a packed bus to Analakely..On alighting at Analakely headed straight to " Restaurant Duo " and lunch was standard Malagasy " Zebu/ Rice 3H beer" costing 22000 Ariary.Sitting at the outdoor venue of this restaurant purchased a belt from a hawker .After lunch walked to the bank and withdrew some cash.Strangely the weather in Antananarivo changed drastically after arriving from Morondava with hot sunshine during the day and no cloudy skies unlike during my first 4 days stay on in the city on arrival from India.Change is permanent. Walked the short distance back to home away from home " Le Relais Normand" through the crowded packed " Petite Vitesse " street.Unbelievable that this same street after closure of shops is totally devoid of humans resembling a ghost street.Truth is stranger than fiction.As usual there was load shedding at night and since I was in the hotel's palatial dining lounge got to dine under candle lights,excellent ambiance.
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| The Odd Couple :- Nile crocodile and a pond heron . |
At 0900 hrs after paying a entrance fee of 15000 Ariary was the first tourist of the day to enter the zoo.During my " Travel Research" had read some horrible reviews of this zoo regarding the maintenance and upkeep of the Lemurs.Was prepared for the worst and was surprised on entering the zoo to see all the literature and signboards in Malagasy and French language. First came across the birds enclosure with a few birds that i could identify which included the peacock.Came across the raptors enclosure ,most prominently being the " Madagascar Fishing eagle" but since description signboard was in French/ Malagasy couldn't identify these species of raptors.Came across the Nile crocodile enclosure that had a beautiful large crocodile basking in the Sun out of the water.Next came across the Lemur enclosure where a lone " Black and White Ruffed Lemur" was as friendly as a pet and one of the reasons Lemur's are facing extinction due to the brisk pet trade in these animals.
This particular locale of the zoo had all Lemur enclosures but all descriptions and nameplates were in French and Malagasy languages.
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| In the " Museum of Natural History " next to Tsimbazaza zoo. |
Came across the brown Lemur, Mongoose Lemur ,Bamboo lemur and the rare Caracal Lemur that is nocturnal by nature and was the smallest of the Lemur species .I had seen different species of Lemurs in " Lemur Park" and now here in Tsimbazaza zoo. There are 2 large lakes in the zoo which have small artificial island's on which Lemurs are enclosed in the open air.Unlike enclosed cages the viewer gets to view the Lemurs in the outdoors with the lake water playing the role of a enclosed cage.One lake has a huge nesting colony of Herons and called Lac Herioniere .Later on payment of 10,000 Ariary visited the museum of " Natural History" situated next to the zoo .Excellent collection of Madagascar fauna but all the literature was in French language.
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| " ELEPHANT BIRD(Aepyornis) WITH ITS EGG".The giant"Elephant Bird" was 3 m high and could weigh up to 500 kg.The section of paleontology starts with the reconstruction of a dinosaur spine and an exhibition of fossilized bones from various parts of the country. It also exposes skeletons of subfossils dating from the Quaternary period, including the pygmy hippopotamus and giant extinct lemurs.(Source :- Wikipedia) |
The museum is the best attraction as it has fossil and skeletal remains of the Dinosaurus, Pygmy Hippopotamus,huge extinct Lemurs and the 3 meter tall " Elephant Bird" along with its large egg that resembles a oversized Ostrich egg.
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| Madagascar Fish Eagle |
From the museum made my way back to the zoo and visited the " Palmetum Section" that had a large collection of different variety of cultivated palm tree's.This section of the zoo also had 3 giant Aldabra tortoises which were busy munching lettuce leaves when I visited their enclosure.Finally decided to make my exit and after a short wait boarded a packed bus to Analakely..On alighting at Analakely headed straight to " Restaurant Duo " and lunch was standard Malagasy " Zebu/ Rice 3H beer" costing 22000 Ariary.Sitting at the outdoor venue of this restaurant purchased a belt from a hawker .After lunch walked to the bank and withdrew some cash.Strangely the weather in Antananarivo changed drastically after arriving from Morondava with hot sunshine during the day and no cloudy skies unlike during my first 4 days stay on in the city on arrival from India.Change is permanent. Walked the short distance back to home away from home " Le Relais Normand" through the crowded packed " Petite Vitesse " street.Unbelievable that this same street after closure of shops is totally devoid of humans resembling a ghost street.Truth is stranger than fiction.As usual there was load shedding at night and since I was in the hotel's palatial dining lounge got to dine under candle lights,excellent ambiance.
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| Spotting the largest lemur in the World ,the "INDRI LEMUR"in Analamazaotra National Park of Madagascar. The Indri is the largest of the 59 living lemur species in the World whose residence is the unique island country of Madagascar.This is a picture of the mother Lemur with its baby next to its stomach looking down at us.The Indri lemur doesnt have a tail and resembles a toy teddy bear, absolutely beautiful and leaps among tree branches akin to a monkey.The park is in the eastern portion of Madagascar's Central Highlands approximately 143 Kms by road from the capital city Antananarivo. The neighbouring Analamazaotra Forest Station is a local reforestation effort and adjoins Andasibe-Mantadia National Park to the north.Analamazaotra Special Reserve, also known as Périnet-Analamazaotra, was established in 1970. On 21 April 2015, the special reserve was combined with the adjacent Analamazaotra Forest Station to create Analamazaotra National Park.Tourists from all across the Globe come to this particular forest to see the Indri Lemur that resides in this forest whose unforgettable wail can be heard emanating from the misty forest at various times throughout the day,mostly in the morning. We were lucky to see this pair of Indri Lemur's along with mother holding a 2 month baby lemur.Also heard this pair wail loudly just above us sitting on the tree top branches.This haunting sound can travel upto a distance of 2 Kms and we were just 50 meters away from this pair sitting on the tree above us.There are about 60 resident family groups of two to five indris each and we saw this pair of Indri family.Over 100 bird species have been identified in the park, together with 20 species of amphibian. The park is also home to the endemic palm tree Ravenea louvelii unique to Madagascar and of which only 10 specimens exist in a single location in Andasibe - Mantadia National park.These plants are protected by preventing tourists and locals access to the location. |
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| At start of "3.5 Km Indri Circuit" jungle walk inside Analamazaotra National park . |
Thursday(12/9/2024) Antananarivo to Andasibe: - As mentioned after closure of business on Petite Vitesse street the locality is dangerous at night.The Insomniac got up at night and looking out of my window onto the street saw 2 cops roughing up someone past midnight.Switching on the T.V saw part of a " Soft - porn" French film,common in First World country's as midnight erotic entertainment but Antananarivo was definitely not Paris .All over the Globe ,First World or Third World Country's, the wealthy and elite live a different lifestyle with different public morals . At 0500 hrs went to the main reception hall as room WiFi was inoperative.Updated my blogging and social media posts and at 0530 headed out of my plush comfort zone onto the street to the bus stop on the next road outside the hotel to board either the No 135 or No 145 bus to Ampasapito Bus terminus .My destination was to visit
On reaching Ampasapito Bus terminus somehow with sign language and English language made my way to the large bus depot that had numerous Mercedes Mini buses parked awaiting passengers for various towns in Madagascar.
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| With Mr Rick.Razafimahefa my maverick guide. Luck and his tracking talent helped us get one of the best close-up views of a "Indri Lemur Family". |
Found my way to the bus ticket counter of the bus heading in direction of Andasibe and ticket issuing agent Mr Bruno was extremely helpful in somehow issuing my ticket costing 24000 Ariary and guiding me to the Mercedes mini bus scheduled to leave at 0700.In the meantime had local street vendor coffee and two fried eggs ,the bus terminus crowded with passengers and street vendors including a fisherwoman selling fish on the street.Departure was at 0710 hrs, the bus packed to capacity and my seating arrangement definitely more comfortable than my 17 hrs ride to Morondava and back to Antananarivo with two different bus companies .The road distance from Antananarivo to Andasibe is approximately 143 Kms.
This highway was excellent in comparison to the Antananarivo to Morondava highway although of the same proportion in width. Very narrow highways due to mountainous highways.
The gentleman seating next to me was a young businessman Mr Simhar from Sri Lanka who was heading to the coastal Port city of Taomasina( Tamatave) which was also the last stop of this bus and would be reaching late in the evening.Taomasina also called Tamatave is the main commercial port of Madagascar and i am sure a few of my Mazagon Dock Marine Engineers Alumni must have visited this port during their employment on ships. We did converse although he was also not very fluent in English.
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| Main Entrance/Exit to Analamazaotra National park. |
One great difference between the East and Western region of Madagascar was that this Eastern highway passed through dense forest hills while the Western region route was absolutely barren hills with few scattered fields akin to a desert topography .There was heavy traffic as usual and did get stuck in a traffic jam.Most of the route was inclined uphill ascents and downhill descents. At 1000 hrs we reached Moramanga City where the bus stopped for a break of discharging cargo as well as passengers .Refreshed myself with some local snacks at a restaurant near the bus stand .The distance between Moramanga and Andasibe is 29 Kms and finally at 1115 hrs reached Andasibe village junction where I alighted and boarded a rickshaw to the nearest and reasonably priced guest house.After a short drive on the road adjacent to Andasibe village highway and leading to Analamazaotra National park he dropped me at " Luc Guesthouse" and after negotiations was allotted accomodation at a rental of 35000 Ariary for a nights stay.
Told the hotel proprietor that I wanted to visit Analamazaotra National park immediately in the same autorickshaw and he rang up and arranged a guide to meet us at the park gate.
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| Giant "Traveller's tree(Ravenala)" ,the National tree of Madagascar on Malagasy village huts estate of "Luc Guest House". The smaller plants are banana plants. Rainforest vegetation in Andasibe region of Madagascar. |
Checked my luggage into a cute African styled hut accommodation with this hotel having beautiful " Madagascar Village Huts " akin to " Boma's" as individual guest houses situated at the base of a forested hill.It was a short 1.5 Km drive from " Luc Guest House " to " Analamazaotra National park " entrance gate and on the way we collected my guide Mr Rick.Razafimahefa,as a guide is mandatory for visiting this National park.This road is in the buffer zone of the National park and hence many tourist resorts on both sides of the highway.Entrance fee to the park was 40,000 Ariary for a 2 hrs guided walk with another 50,000 Ariary as " Guide fees".Guide Rick spoke good English and this park is one of the most visited National parks in Madagascar because of its close proximity to Antananarivo and also because it is home to the largest Lemur ,the Indri breed of Lemur species.At 1145 hrs we began the guided tour first entering the park information centre that explained the uniqueness of the Indri Lemur, the main attraction of this park .
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| "Night Safari" along the boundary road of the forest upto the entrance gate of Analamazaotra National park. |
Our main agenda as of all tourists visiting Analamazaotra National park is to have bragging rights of sighting the World's largest Lemur, the " INDRI".From the lower dense forest we had to trek up a small hill to reach the semi-primary forest region situated on level ground.To my amazement Rick suddenly pointed onto a tree and hence sighted my first Indri Lemur, observing it closely with my binoculars.
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| Parson's Chameleon spotted on a tree with the torchlight.Considered the World's largest chameleon by weight resembling a small cat. |
Resembled a giant panda,cute and doll like in appearance.Next Rick played a recorded cassette of the " Indri call" sound and after a few minutes the forest was ringing with the loud sound of Indri calls,akin to music.This call travels over 2 Kms in the jungle and for us below the tree it was akin to standing next to blaring speakers at a Rock show.Unforgettable haunting sound. Spotted the Indri as also recording it's sound and later another Indri was sighted by Rick and this was a female holding a baby Lemur.A Spanish family along with their guide were in our vicinity and joined us in tracking this pair of Indri Lemur couple,getting beautiful close- up views of the couple.Indri Lemurs have this habit of constantly urinating and managed to video one of the Indri Lemur's urinating and also photographed the poop of another Indri as it offloaded the same while jumping off a branch.Very similar to monkeys in jumping among branches and after sometime the pair disappeared into the dense forest.My unplanned last minute trip to Andasibe had paid dividends and nature had blessed me in sighting this rare pair of Indri Lemurs and that too with a 2 to 3 months old baby.
On our return trip towards the entrance came across a sleeping Scops owl which Rick had sighted.
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| A woolly Lemur on the tree above with a baby.Viewed under torchlight during Night Safari.Notice it's shining eyes under the torchlight. |
If not for guide Rick I would have probably walked across the forest pathway just managing to spot a Lemur but definitely not the " Indri Lemur" which doesn't come in close proximity to humans unlike a few other Lemur species.Finally at approximately 1345 hrs we made our exit and our rickshaw driver reached us at " Luc Guest House" .Lunch was fish/ rice/ beer and there was no electricity till 1630 hrs.Relaxed in my plush hut after a excellent hot water bathe.Internet connectivity was excellent .In the evening had a shot of local Malagasy " Ginger Rum" along with finger chips and Barbeque Zebu meat.At 2000 hrs Guide Rick came over to the guesthouse and he took me on a " Night Safari" .We walked from our guesthouse upto the entrance gate of the National park and enroute spotted the Parson's Chameleon,Nose horn chameleons ,Fat tailed lemurs,Woolly lemurs and Mouse Lemurs.The Parson's Chameleon,the World's largest Chameleon resembled a small cat in size.
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| " Zebu Barbeque " and " Malagasy Ginger Rum " before the "Night Safari" . |
The Parson's chameleon is one of the longest-lived chameleon species. Wild males are known to have reached at least 9 years and females at least 8 years and it is estimated that its longevity in the wild is 10 to 12 years. In captivity, individuals of 14 years have been recorded, which is older than confirmed in any other species of chameleon, and it is possible that some Parson's chameleons might be able to reach as much as 20 years. The mouse Lemurs were very active nibbling at vegetation and jumping from.branches.One of the Woolly Lemurs we spotted had a baby and the Lemurs eyes shine bright in the torchlight.Finally returned back to the guesthouse at 2145 hrs and payed young 29 year old Rick 30,000 Ariary for his guide services for he was just unbelievably proficient akin to binocular vision in seeing in the dark with his torchlight.For us normal folks this would have just been a ordinary walk on the periphery of a National park.He is a self taught hobby zoologist specializing as a guide akin to yours truly a " Self Taught Portfolio Investor" .Weather was cold but not chill cold and got a decent night's sleep in the warmth of my " Madagascar village Hut" bed.
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| A view of "LUC GUEST HOUSE" in Andasibe with its "Malagasy African tourist huts" village accomodation.My Malagasy hut is on the extreme right of this photo having a red curtain at the entrance. There were 2 beds in this small hut .A row of "Madagascar Village tourist Huts" having all the amenities inside including hot water are erected on the base of a hill as also a few on the upper level of this small hill as seen in this photo.The huts are of different sizes .Very scenic accomodation in this rainforest with cockerels crowing early in the morning and at times the haunting calls of the Indri Lemur from the bordering Analamazaotra National park.If visiting Andasibe try to stay in this type of village accommodation.The Analamazaotra National park. entrance gate was only 1.5 Km walking distance from this scenic guest house.The tallest tree in this photo is the "TRAVELER'S TREE(RAVENELA)", the National tree of Madagascar. |
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| Breakfast at " Luc Guest House " restaurant. |
Friday (13/9/2024) Departure from Andasibe to Antananarivo:- End of my wildlife discovery adventures in Madagascar with all my dreams of wildlife encounters turning almost 90% into real life reality.Spotted a " Indri Lemur" couple with a baby and the World's largest as well as smallest chameleon's besides seeing various other species of Lemurs in the wild forest.Experienced basic rural and city life living of the Malagasy people .Yes, believe in your dreams and ambitions ,they could materialize to reality.Believe it or not that this Andasibe wildlife travel from Antananarivo was a last minute gamble as the Morondava travel odyssey had sapped my energy at my young age.Alls well that ends well and just in a day's visit to Andasibe got to see what at times could take tourists a weeks stay to observe what I did.In speculation philosophy we call it " Gamblers First Luck".
I myself have been on tours in India's wildlife parks and on many occasions didn't spot the tiger let alone a elusive leopard.
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| With Norwegian tourist Mr Eirik Barstadhas at Moramanga bus terminus.Young 36 year old Eirik has traveled to 106 countries, the first time in my lifetime of travel have met a "Solo Traveller" with 106 countries travel under his belt. |
Here in Analamazaotra National park within a hour got to witness a Indri couple with baby and also tape the haunting voice of the Indri Lemur from close range.In the early morning had a stroll on the hotel's " Madagascar village hut" estate with cockerels crowing.Breakfast was egg omelette with bread and at 0600 hrs electric power was shut to be switched on at 1700 hrs in the evening. Inquired about the return journey back to Antananarivo and a guide Mr Adrian who spoke English as do all guides advised me to board the bus to Moramanga City which is 28 km from Andasibe on the same highway and from Moramanga to board another bus to Antananarivo. At 0815 hrs boarded the bus that stopped in front of " Luc Guest House " that gradually got housefull with locals with a lone Caucasian tourist seated on the front seat next to the driver.At 0915 reached Moramanga city and in sign language as well as verbal English asked the driver for directions to buses departing for Antananarivo.Understood his instruction and while heading towards the Antananarivo bus stand the young Caucasian tourist asked me in fluent English the direction to the bus stop and so
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| Crowded and busy Moramanga City |
We booked our tickets at the bus station office and on casual conversation was delighted to know that at 36 years of age Mr Eirik from Norway had travelled to about 106 country's .He marvelled at my achievement despite all odds when I told him I had travelled to 100 countries as he understood the " Visa regulations" faced by Indian passport holders .As a Norwegian tourist he could just book a plane ticket and walk into most countries without a " Visa" or get a " Visa" issued on arrival.Moramanga City was similar to Antananarivo city, crowded with people and having a busy marketplace with cycle rickshaws.Finally at 0930 hrs we began our bus journey from Moramanga City to Antananarivo ,the routine uphill and downhill well paved mountain winding roads.Absolutely cramped seating and realised the secret of Mr Eirik Barstadhas seated next to me for having successfully travelled across 106 country's. Simple,he adjusted to travel circumstances and situations.I have visited Oslo and experienced the lifestyle and living conditions of the average Norwegian and here Mr Eirik Barstadhas was utterly comfortable in a Third World cramped up mini-bus ,unbelievable for a " First World citizen" accustomed to high quality infrastructure and common luxury travel by public transport let alone a private vehicle.
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| Landmark 3-star hotel "Tana Plaza" located opposite Antananarivo railway station at the start of Independence Avenue road . The road in the direction to which the car in the photograph is heading is Petite Vitesse road and my residence "Le Relais Normand" hotel was just 5 minutes walking distance from this juncture. |
Longevity as a "Solo Traveller" requires playing the role of a "Human Chameleon", learning to adapt to situations and circumstances of your surroundings during travel away from your normal comfort zone.It is not wealth alone or a "First World passport" that guarantees travel across different countries around the Globe. Ahoy ! Travel educates. More humans have been to space than travelled to every country of the World..For the first time during my travels i came across a traveller who had visited 100 or more countries and when i suggested being only 36 years of age and having a Norwegian passport he could easily complete strolling across the entire 195 UNESCO recognized Countries he replied that he intended doing the same by land and sea travel but not by air travel.Definitely something different.Finally at 1215 hrs reached Ampasapito bus terminus.Next difficulty was finding the buses as although I can afford taxi's i avoid them if public transport is available, a habit since my frugal travel era during my younger years.Finally boarded a bus and it was a huge relief when it finally stopped just outside my hotel as the bus terminus was just walking distance from the hotel.Was hungry and lunch was " Tilapia fish with sauce and rice" at my home away from home " Le Relais Normand " hotel.Later in the evening had a stroll along the street of Petite Vitesse as usual packed with hawkers.Came across a few street food vendors selling raw oyster/ shells which was eaten along with a sauce.
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| Street sea food :- Raw Oysters as a snack on Petite Vitesse street. A cheap favourite among locals. |
Have tasted the same in Europe and hence just tasted one as I didn't want to risk a stomach upset.Dinner was omelette/ bread/lettuce at the hotel's reception restaurant.The abrupt change in Antananarivo weather from cold to warm led to a sudden appearance of mosquitoes as I mistakenly kept the gallery window partly open and hence a influx of mosquitoes and a sleepless night.
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| Antananarivo City Hall is located on Avenue de l'Indépendance(Independence Avenue) in the Analakely district.Antananarivo City Hall (Lapan'ny Tanàna) is the building that houses the municipal institutions of Antananarivo, Madagascar, from 1935 to 1972 and since 2010.The original Antananarivo City Hall was constructed between 1935 and 1936 under the direction of French architect Jean Henri Collet de Cantalou. The building was designed in the Art Deco style, featuring a white stone façade and wrought iron arcades.The building housed the offices of the Antananarivo mayoralty, as well as reception rooms and cultural spaces.The city hall was destroyed by fire on May 13, 1972, during riots in Antananarivo.The new Antananarivo City Hall was constructed in 2011 on the site of the original building. The design was carried out by Malagasy architect Mamy Rajaobelina and built in identical art deco style of the original building.It houses the offices of the Antananarivo mayoralty, as well as reception rooms and cultural spaces.(Source :- Wikipedia ) |
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| Analakely Market steps leading to the upper City. |
Saturday(24/9/2024) Antananarivo:- My last day in Antananarivo and whichever city or Country I visit always feel sad on my day of departure back home to India.Home is home in Mumbai in India but travel makes me feel like I am in the prime of my youth and rejuvenates my dying brain cells as aging is a cruel test of preventing personal physical degradation.Although I had a sleepless night was energetic in the morning and after breakfast headed out of my comfort zone of the plush hotel onto Petite Vitesse street past Independence avenue with its beautiful tiled roof buildings and into bustling Analakely market. Whenever I visit and city or town in India or any foreign country always make it a point to visit the local markets,especially the fish market.Came across a food hawker selling " Samosa " a very popular snack in Madagascar let alone Antananarivo.
Took 3 different Samosa which were tiny in size and cost a total of only 1500 Ariary and definitely non- vegetarian containing chicken or Zebu( beef) .
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| Going Fish Marketing in Antananarivo. In Analakely Fish market testing my strength holding 2 giant size eels. |
Next walked across the large meat section of Analakely market that had numerous shops selling meat products of Zebu cattle( Beef), Mutton,Pork and chickens. This locale of the market was definitely not for vegetarians or non- vegetarians who do not like to see the raw material food served to them on the table.Large chunks of meat of different farm animals,liver and byproducts of slaughtered animals were all over the shops in different forms of display." Sausages" are very popular in Madagascar and most meat shops display hanging sausages.From the " Meat Section" entered the small " Fish Section" of Anlakely market that had mostly " Tilapia" fish,besides normal other fish species .As i do the marketing in Mumbai its a habit to inquire fish prices.Tilapia cost 20,000 Ariary/ Kilo while king size prawns cost 40,000 Ariary/ Kilo and large Octopus 20,000 Ariary/ Kilo. Spotted 2 large eels and requested a fish buyer to click my photo while I held these dead fish.Inspiration from National Geographic Angler Mr Jeremy Wade whose true life T.V series "River Monsters" is my favourite although these 2 eels were no sea or river monsters and myself never ever a angler but a air-gun hunter during my youth.
From the fish market strolled across other sections of the market and finally after purchasing half a kilo of oranges and mangoes walked back to the hotel.
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| Vegetables and Fruits section of Analakely market. The largest market in Antananarivo. |
The mangoes were no comparison to Indian mangoes and among fruits the pineapples of Madagascar are very delicious as also cheap.Later decided to visit the local market of Petite Vitesse street and was surprised to discover a large market selling various types of vegetables and consumable items identical to local markets back home in India.Was told " Vanilla " weed used for cakes and ice-cream was excellent in Madagascar and on inquiry was shown the same which resembled " Weed".Purchased 10,000 Ariary worth " Vanilla weed" and after dropping the same at my hotel decided to head for lunch to familiar " Duo " restaurant.Passing alongside Antananarivo railway station decided to have one last look at this iconic majestic building and was allowed to enter the building which had the offices of " Orange Telecommunications " .Change is permanent as this building must have once been bustling with railway passengers and arrival and departure of a passenger train.Today the railway lines exist but only a few goods trains use the rail tracks.
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| View of a section of Analakely Market with its unique tiled roof shops. |
Visited the plush 5-star style " Cafe de la Gare " restaurant situated on what was once the railway platform of this terminus.A classic spacious indoors as well as outdoors restaurant.A oil tanker train was on the tracks moving to and fro and a few tourists were seated outdoors having drinks and watching the action of this goods train,a total different view from the normal associated with luxury dining.A gentleman was playing on the piano and I presumed he was the local hotel musician only to later realize while requesting him to click my photo that Italian Mr Emanuele Fusi was a lawyer from Italy whose passion was travel and playing the piano.Strangers became acquaintances .Finally lunch at " Restaurant Duo" was the usual " Malagasy Tilapia fry with sauce and rice".Begging or pestering foreigners for money is quite common in Antananarivo and young girls with a baby in arms pester a person for money which I experienced a few times.Otherwise barring language communication found locals very helpful.After lunch it was a short walk back to" Le Relais Normand " hotel.
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| " I LOVE ANTANANARIVO ".Outside the landmark City Hall building. |
My last dinner in Antananarivo and at " Le Relais Normand " hotel was one of the best steaks i have tasted along with peri peri fries.Excellent.The restaurant of the hotel played classic English Rock/ pop music of the 20th century throughout the day even in the toilets ,common among plush African hostels/ hotels.Excellent ambiance. Relaxed in my room for a hour and at 2230 hrs along with 2 young German hotel tourists boarded the taxi to Ivato Airport with the taxi fare amounting to 50,000 Ariary. As I was early had to wait outside the " Departure Entry " gate until 2345 hrs with negligible passenger traffic.Was the first passenger to check in at the " Kenya Airways " counter and after collecting my boarding passes had to fill the immigration form that was submitted at the police immigration counter.
Sunday (25/9/2024)Kenya Airways flight to Mumbai with transit at Nairobi :-
After immigration my next stop was security clearance. Was the first and only passenger with no queue,a first time airport experience in my lifetime of travel.Unbelievable.
Felt as if I was travelling all alone on my private plane.This can happen only in the unique island of Lemurs and Baobab tree's, Madagascar.Travelling through my 100th visited country i had also completed my practical understanding of "First World", "Developing World " and "Third World" countries.Travel educates. After security as usual walked through " Duty Free" liquor lounge and a few shops and finally to " Gate 23 A" with boarding time for " KQ 263" being 0215 hrs.Ivato Airport was a nice compact and clean airport.Even " Ivato Airport" is not spared from power outages and experienced lights changing over from mains to generators twice while waiting to board the aircraft.Boarding gate was shifted to " 22 A" and back again to " 23 A" with departure delayed.Finally " KQ263" took off and after ages did doze off on the plane even after being woken for the normal snack breakfast.At 0700 hrs touched down at Nairobi airport where the weather was cool with bright sunshine. Free Airport Internet WiFi connectivity was excellent and after the formal transit security check and past duty free shops visited the toilet and had a wash.This would be one of my longest transit stays in a airport and thanks to " INTERNET" would not feel bored and lonely.
Made myself comfortable on the deck arm chairs installed in the departure lounge with a bird's eye view of the tarmac.Later changed a few Dirhams to Kenyan Shillings receiving 2100 shillings also noticing for the first time that the Indian Rupee was on the exchange board of currencies @ Rs 1 = 1.20 KShilling.Lunch was excellent " Beef curry/ Rice" costing 2000 KSh at " Ro Ro Chinese restaurant on the first floor of " Food Court" of the departure lounge which also served Indian culinary dishes.Numerous restaurants within the departure lounge of Nairobi airport as also many varieties of Duty Free shops.Besides visiting countrys I was also touring airports due to delayed transit departures." Flight KQ202'" to Mumbai seemed jinxed with another extended delay of departure st for 2055 hrs.Nairobi airport was my home for the entire day .Kenya Airways have this habit of adjusting their flight departures although have never faced a totally cancelled flight .Watching planes land and later taxing to the airport passenger disembarkation shute occupied my entire day.
It was akin to doing a one day course of commercial airport plane traffic control.Suddenly noticed a few Indians conversing in Hindi and so made acquaintances with Mr Sunil.Mahadik,the head salesman of a company that held exhibitions and installed machines.He had held a exhibition in Nigeria and was returning back to Mumbai.Finally at 1830 hrs made our way to Gate 21 and got our tickets checked with boarding time scheduled for 2005 hrs.Thanks to the excellent airport WiFi that I could tolerate being stranded in the airport. Finally boarded the plane at 2115 hrs and at last the " KQ202" took flight and after ages dozed in the plane with the " Elvis" biography playing on the screen.Dinner was lousy and according to me having flown with " Kenya Airways " before seems the airlines is losing ground to competitors in " Plane punctuality" and onboard " Food Quality ".Hope the same improves.Didn't watch any movie completely as I dozed off on both " Elvis" and " Ferrari" biography movies which I had watched on previous onboard flight entertainment. Finally after 6 1/2 hrs flying touched down in Mumbai Airport. After the normal immigration formalities did some " Duty Free" shopping ,collected my trolley bag and headed out of the airport. Booked a ordinary taxi at a hire charge of Rs 500 and yours truly Nomadic traveller was driven to my 49 years permanent home address at Old Prabhadevi Road in Mumbai.
After immigration my next stop was security clearance. Was the first and only passenger with no queue,a first time airport experience in my lifetime of travel.Unbelievable.
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| Last dinner in Madagascar. " Zebu Steak with chips peri/ peri" in my home away from home,classic " Le Relais Normand " hotel. |
Felt as if I was travelling all alone on my private plane.This can happen only in the unique island of Lemurs and Baobab tree's, Madagascar.Travelling through my 100th visited country i had also completed my practical understanding of "First World", "Developing World " and "Third World" countries.Travel educates. After security as usual walked through " Duty Free" liquor lounge and a few shops and finally to " Gate 23 A" with boarding time for " KQ 263" being 0215 hrs.Ivato Airport was a nice compact and clean airport.Even " Ivato Airport" is not spared from power outages and experienced lights changing over from mains to generators twice while waiting to board the aircraft.Boarding gate was shifted to " 22 A" and back again to " 23 A" with departure delayed.Finally " KQ263" took off and after ages did doze off on the plane even after being woken for the normal snack breakfast.At 0700 hrs touched down at Nairobi airport where the weather was cool with bright sunshine. Free Airport Internet WiFi connectivity was excellent and after the formal transit security check and past duty free shops visited the toilet and had a wash.This would be one of my longest transit stays in a airport and thanks to " INTERNET" would not feel bored and lonely.
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| Antananarivo to Mumbai by " Kenya Airways " Arrival at transit Nairobi Airport from Antananarivo .From Nairobi another flight to Mumbai. |
Made myself comfortable on the deck arm chairs installed in the departure lounge with a bird's eye view of the tarmac.Later changed a few Dirhams to Kenyan Shillings receiving 2100 shillings also noticing for the first time that the Indian Rupee was on the exchange board of currencies @ Rs 1 = 1.20 KShilling.Lunch was excellent " Beef curry/ Rice" costing 2000 KSh at " Ro Ro Chinese restaurant on the first floor of " Food Court" of the departure lounge which also served Indian culinary dishes.Numerous restaurants within the departure lounge of Nairobi airport as also many varieties of Duty Free shops.Besides visiting countrys I was also touring airports due to delayed transit departures." Flight KQ202'" to Mumbai seemed jinxed with another extended delay of departure st for 2055 hrs.Nairobi airport was my home for the entire day .Kenya Airways have this habit of adjusting their flight departures although have never faced a totally cancelled flight .Watching planes land and later taxing to the airport passenger disembarkation shute occupied my entire day.
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| Lunch in " Nairobi Airport ". Had a transit time of 14 hrs at Nairobi airport as my flight to Mumbai was delayed by 4 hrs.Air travel can be tedious and frustrating at times. |
It was akin to doing a one day course of commercial airport plane traffic control.Suddenly noticed a few Indians conversing in Hindi and so made acquaintances with Mr Sunil.Mahadik,the head salesman of a company that held exhibitions and installed machines.He had held a exhibition in Nigeria and was returning back to Mumbai.Finally at 1830 hrs made our way to Gate 21 and got our tickets checked with boarding time scheduled for 2005 hrs.Thanks to the excellent airport WiFi that I could tolerate being stranded in the airport. Finally boarded the plane at 2115 hrs and at last the " KQ202" took flight and after ages dozed in the plane with the " Elvis" biography playing on the screen.Dinner was lousy and according to me having flown with " Kenya Airways " before seems the airlines is losing ground to competitors in " Plane punctuality" and onboard " Food Quality ".Hope the same improves.Didn't watch any movie completely as I dozed off on both " Elvis" and " Ferrari" biography movies which I had watched on previous onboard flight entertainment. Finally after 6 1/2 hrs flying touched down in Mumbai Airport. After the normal immigration formalities did some " Duty Free" shopping ,collected my trolley bag and headed out of the airport. Booked a ordinary taxi at a hire charge of Rs 500 and yours truly Nomadic traveller was driven to my 49 years permanent home address at Old Prabhadevi Road in Mumbai.
